Learn the tips and tricks to painting a bathroom cabinet that will last! This inexpensive yet professional looking project saved our builder grade vanity.
Painting the bathroom vanity has been on our todo list for years! We are so close to finishing up this bathroom renovation, that I almost can’t stand it!
So this is what we started with:
It’s not in great shape and the missing front piece has never been there since we moved in.
The awesome power of paint in a makeover never ceases to amaze and, frankly, I love that it is a huge budget saver. I have painted several furniture pieces over the years and am ready to tackle a little different job.
With only a quart of paint, the right tools, and a little knowledge, I made this into to a more modern guest bathroom!
While it might seem like an intimidating project, with the right tools and some good advice, it’s perfect for a beginner DIY project. If this is a project you’ve considered tackling, this post will give you the step by step how-to to get it done! Let’s go…
Recommended Paint Project Supplies
- TSP Cleaner – or any degreasing cleaner should be fine
- Palm sander, mouse sander or multi-tool cutter/sander, sandpaper blocks (if necessary)
- Stainblocker or Shellac Based Primer (only needed for very light or white colors)
- Paintbrushes
- Microfiber rollers (Not Foam)
- Paint – (my favorites) Benjamin Moore Advance, Cabinet Transformations, Fusion Mineral, Rust-Oleum Chalked Ultra Matte
- Protective Topcoat – Here is my list of favorite protective topcoats. (optional- more on that later)
What to do Before Starting
The first step when painting a bathroom vanity is to remove the drawers, door front, and any hardware present so that only the frame is left.
If you are changing out the hardware to a different size, fill any holes from the old hardware. After the surface is good, clean the frames and all doors and drawer fronts with either teaspoon or a household cleaner if the cabinet isn’t too nasty.
How To Prep Furniture for Painting
After all grime is removed, lightly sand the surface. I generally recommend against skipping the sanding because the best bond requires some sanding. And you want your paint to have the best bond for long lasting results.
For sanding, you only need to “rough up”, not completely remove all previous stain and varnish. I use an orbital sander with 120 grit and leave it at that. A 220 can be used for hand sanding any corners.
If you want to get a completely smooth finish, we have a tutorial for filling in woodgrain on furniture. For dark colors with a matte sheen, I generally don’t find it to be bothersome.
After everything is sanded, vacuum off the sanding dust and wipe all of the surfaces down with a clean microfiber cloth or tack cloth.
Tips for Painting a Cabinet
Yes, the fun part! Here are some tips for the smoothest finish:
- Get the right tools. A few extra dollars will save you a lot of heartache and frustration. I prefer fine taklon brushes like you find at craft stores for the least amount of brush strokes, but many people like Purdy Brushes.
- Tape off any edges you don’t want painted such as under countertops or walls.
- Use a lint free -microfiber roller across all flat surfaces for the smoothest finish.
- You will get the best results if you brush then roll before the paint has time to dry.
With a brush and microfiber roller, I painted 2 coats. And that’s it!
Because I wanted to add hardware to this vanity, I drilled holes in each piece and screwed them in just like any other hardware.
Want more furniture transformations? Check these out!
- How to Eliminate Brush Marks or Strokes
- Executive Desk Makeover
- How to Paint Old Kitchen Cabinets
- How to Paint a Stair Rail that Lasts
- Military Footlocker Trash to Treasure Makeover
Frequently Asked Questions
Yes! If you do not have any of the below problems, I would skip priming:
1. You are using a non-priming enamel paint.
2. There is no risk of stains, oils, or grease coming through the paint (use a stainblocking primer if there is).
3. You aren’t painting bright white (I like to use a stainblocking primer for white).
The color is Midnight Blue from Fusion Mineral Paints. The above pictures are the best reference for what the true color looks like in LOTS of natural light. However, it does appear darker at night or in shadow (it looks almost black).
I usually don’t paint the insides or the drawer sides because it just isn’t worth the effort for me. I generally don’t recommend painting inside the cabinets because of scratches. If you have some damage, I would probably use a quality contact paper.
Moisture is definitely going to be a factor when deciding what paint to use. As a result, I would use an enamel or acrylic type of paint. Fusion Mineral Paint is an Acrylic Emulsion based paint rather than something like chalk or latex which I would never use in a bathroom.
You Can Buy Fusion Mineral Paint Here.
You can read more about the best paints for furniture here which shows my personal recommendations developed over years of refinishing and living with painted furniture.
No. The biggest misconception I see in painting is the idea that you need to sand between coats. Sanding is required only if your paint is not smooth to your liking.
With the paints I use, a topcoat is not required. If you do choose to add a protective topcoat, there are lots of options and they all work pretty well. You can read my recommendations on the best topcoats for furniture to help make a decision, but any quality poly will do. Just make sure that it is water based.
See our full bathroom remodel reveal here.
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More Furniture Painting Tutorials
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How To Paint a Bathroom Cabinet
Supplies
- TSP or degreaser
- Sandpaper or sanding blocks 120 and 220 grit
- Paint brushes
- Lint-free microfiber rollers
- Paint See my favorites to use in Notes
- Protective Top Coat Optional, but recommended
Instructions
- Remove hardware and doors. For large jobs, I number the doors. Clean the frames and all doors and drawer fronts well.
- Sand enough to remove any sheen or gloss. An orbital sander with 120 grit makes the sanding much easier. 120 or 220 grit can be used for hand sanding any corners.
- Tape off any edges you don't want painted such as under countertops or walls. Use a lint free microfiber roller across all flat surfaces for the smoothest finish. You will get the best results if you brush then roll before the paint has time to dry.
Notes
- Painting over dark cabinets with a light or white color
- Oak Cabinets that have bad stains stains like deeply embedded oil or markers.
- Cabinets with knots in the wood such as knotty pine.
Jessica Ball says
Did you unscrew all the cabinet doors to paint them or just leave them on? I’m getting ready to start this project in my son’s bathroom and then move onto my master bath.. thanks for any info! Love love love the blue
Rachel says
Thank you for your kind words. I did not unscrew the doors in this case since I was brushing them. I usually only take off the doors when I am using a paint sprayer.
Kat says
Hello! I painted my cabinets before reading this post and used a regular semi-gloss paint. It has been a week or so now and the cabinets are still sticky. I was thinking of doing a top coat and was wondering if you have any recommendations.
Rachel says
The paint probably just hasn’t cured yet. The higher the sheen (flat being the lowest and gloss being the highest), the longer they make take to cure or reach maximum hardness. I am not sure of the paint you used, so I can’t say for sure. I would just give them some time. A topcoat won’t make them less sticky. In fact, it may make it worse. Some top coats can take up to 60 days to fully cure in high humidity.
Ellen says
Love your bathroom updates; the navy vanity is so sharp. I have a vanity similar to yours; gotta love builders grade! Like yours, my panel drawers are either crooked or have fallen off. Please share how you secured yours. I’ve tried gluing but they just fall off. Thank you in advance and thanks for sharing.
Rachel says
We had a drawer front completely missing so we cut a new drawer front with a router, which I understand that not everyone has. I kind of really like this idea. The trays come in different sizes too. If you don’t like the tray, there are these clips. I will admit the clips work just ok. I hope that helps!
Anne says
Absolutely incredible, I never would have thought of a dark blue but it looks so good with the gold hardware!
Jeana Coleman says
This looks beautiful. HOW did you get that mirror off of the wall? Did you have to tape and smash it, or did i pop right off? I’m a bit scared about removing mine. My bathroom looks just like this one.
Rachel says
Our mirror did pop right off, which actually scared me! Such a large mirror being held on by nothing but 4 clips seemed a little precarious. I thought for sure it was going to be caulked or glued to the wall.
Amy Richey says
Your bathroom is beautiful! I have a similar vanity that I am installing in my children’s bathroom and will be adding new countertops and sinks.
Are your sinks centered within the entire cabinet(door and drawers) or just centered on the cabinet door? I hope this question makes sense:)
Rachel says
The sinks are more centered on the drawers and door. You can see it better in a photo from our Bathroom Reveal Post. That wasn’t necessarily a design decision, however, as I didn’t want to move the plumbing in the wall. It was just the easiest route. But I do think I would have picked centered over both the doors and drawers better anyhow. Hope that helps!
Lynn says
Bathroom looks amazing. was thinking of doing the same to mine.
where did you get the vanity top and sinks?
Rachel says
Hi! Thank you so much. To make it easier, I put a list of all our sources at the bottom of our Bathroom Makeover Reveal post here.
Clarissa says
How many cans of paint did u use??
Rachel says
For this cabinet, I used 1 quart.
Corrine says
It looks great! How many quarts of paint did you use?
Rachel says
This vanity was less than one quart in total. The Fusion Mineral paint goes a long way.
Lara says
The bathroom is gorgeous! That vanity is so chic!! Thank you for sharing you techniques and the materials that you used for this project.
I’m wondering why you chose to use Fusion Mineral Paint instead of Benjamin Moore Advance, like you used on the stair banister? How you used Benjamin Moore Advanced on cabinetry before? If you have, what’s your option on it, in regards to smooth finish and durability?
I’m really enjoying your site! Thank you!!!
Rachel says
Thank you Lara for such kind words! I am so humbled you enjoy the blog and projects. I have another post about my favorite paints and why. I use a few different paints for different reasons. While BM advance would work great for a vanity, I liked the Matte finish that Fusion gives with almost the same durability for my particular project. Sheen is very important to me. In fact, I ask clients what sheen they are looking for before I ever ask about color! Fusion is pretty durable. Not perfect and some colors do seem better than others, but for a matte, it’s my favorite. I have scrubbed dried on toothpaste from my son many times and it looks as good today as when it was first painted! Also, honestly, I really liked that midnight blue color.
I have used BM advance on cabinets and highly recommend it. I have also used Sherwin Williams Emerald (I think it is?) and that one was good too, but I dislike SW primer. Kilz premium or pro-bond all the way there.
Danielle says
What matte top coat will you use for these cabinets when you decide to put a top coat on like you mentioned you wanted to do?
Rachel says
I have a list of my favorite topcoats for furniture in this post. I go more in depth of why I like different ones for different uses. However, Fusion Mineral also makes a matte wipe on poly and I do like General Finishes Matte Poly.
Mariane Prato says
Absolutely loved your post and I’m in the middle of painting my vanity the same colour. What Matte topcoat would you recommend? Thank you for sharing!
Rachel says
Your vanity is going to look so good! For this particular vanity, I don’t have a topcoat on it and I am extremely happy with it’s durability. However, I do have a list of my favorite topcoats for furniture in this post.
Pat says
Any recommendations on a paint brand from home depot instead?
Rachel says
Hi Pat, unfortunately I don’t have any paints that I definitively recommend for furniture from Home Depot. Most of the paints there are made for walls, which doesn’t have the durability that a furniture paint needs (in my humble opinion). Most people find that these paints often chip after a year or two around the knobs and other used areas. I have a post on my favorite furniture paints here. However, there is one you could check out. I do not have any experience with it, but Behr does make an Alkyd paint that should be specialized for furniture or cabinets. It only comes in semi-gloss and satin sheen.
Jaime says
Hello,
I know you mentioned you don’t paint the insides or side of the drawers, but what about the cabinets? Do you just paint the outsides of those and leave the insides the original wood color? Trying this for the first time. Yikes! I don’t want to not have enough paint (only have 500 mL). Thanks!
Rachel says
I don’t paint the cabinets inside at all. Maybe it’s laziness, but I just don’t feel it’s worth it, lol. I do paint the lip just inside the door if there is one, but not deep inside the cabinets. I do usually paint the insides of the doors, but sometimes not. No one ever sees that area, so it’s not needed. Good luck with your project and feel free to email me if you have any other questions!
Laura says
About how much paint did it take for the vanity? It looks like mine is similar in size and I’d like to purchase that paint from Etsy! I just don’t want to order too little and then half to wait.
Looks amazing!
Rachel says
I only used one of the bigger sizes and I still have some left over in case I ever need to touch it up. I haven’t in over a year and it is the boys bathroom so I have scrubbed dried toothpaste off a lot and the finish has held up great.
Rachael says
I plan to do a similar scheme so love all your links to products! Do you happen to have the info on the floor tile? Thanks!
Rachel says
Hi! Thank you so much for your kind words and I hope your project turns out great! I have a source list for the entire bathroom at the bottom of this Transitional Bathroom Remodel Reveal. The direct link for the tile is here from the Tile Shop. However, I have seen similar tile at Floor & Decor if you have one of those stores near you.
Ashlyn says
Wow!!! This makeover is fabulous. LOVE the navy color. I’m about to tackle a vanity myself so appreciate the tips.
Julia C says
Absolutely Love the makeover!
I’m planning on doing exactly the same in my bathroom.
Thank you for sharing 🙂
Rachel says
Thank you! I love everything about this bathroom. We are gearing up for our master bathroom remodel as well.