Craving Some Creativity

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How to Paint A Stairwell That Lasts

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You ever notice how one project just seems to lead to another on the ‘ol list? When we had our solid hardwood floors installed, I was shocked at the price to replace the balusters, railings, and steps. $200 per step and the railings would add several thousand dollars to our project. That was pretty far outside my budget, so a $50 can of paint looked mighty enticing for painting railings and the balusters.

The easiest way to paint an old oak banister including railing and balusters. No priming, No chipping, and I love the classic look of black and white.

Painted Stairs -Preparation is Key

As with any DIY project, preparation is key to success! I am lucky enough to have an amazing paint sprayer to work on several of my painted furniture projects. However, the setup and cleaning can be a chore for small projects or maybe you want to paint something in place and the over-spray makes that impossible. Painting railings and balusters is exactly one of those projects where it was just too much work to pull out and reinstall easily. It can be very tedious and boring, but the transformation is absolutely worth it. The nice thing is that you can also do this in sections if you like to break up the monotony. We haven’t finished the upstairs banisters yet but the main floor ones are finished.

Hand sanding all of this is certainly the worst part of the job. The nice thing about paint is that you really just need to “rough-up” the surface. There is no need to remove all of the previous varnish and stain. We alternated using 120 and 220 grit sandpaper and made sure to get in all the edges as needed.

How to Paint Stair Railings

Stairwell railings are frankly high-traffic areas. They will be touched, leaned on, and maybe an occasional child who seems to think they some new style of jungle gym (or is that just mine?!). The most durable paints will be a satin or high-gloss sheen. Believe me, you do not want a use a very flat paint like chalk paint (unless you use a protective top coat like polyurethane) on a high traffic piece such as a kitchen table or these stair railings.

Painting-without-Brush-Marks-or-Streaks

Anyways, the best paint for painting railings, in my experience, is Benjamin Moore Advance. It does not require priming! It levels beautifully without brush strokes (with my favorite brushes that you can get at Michael’s for under $10). I painted the stair well railing in black and white right around Christmas time, about six months ago. There isn’t a single scratch, crack, or scrape in the paint and clearly we use them every day. This stuff is hard as a rock.

Painting-a-Stairwell-White-and-Black

Since these stair railings and banisters have some detail to them, I used my favorite one-inch brush to make sure the paint was even, stroke free, and got into all of the crevices. All-in-all, it took me about 4 days to do the railing above, two long hand rails attached to the walls, and two smaller sections of banister on the opposite side. I am so happy with the results!

Paint Curing Time

In my experience, this paint does cure pretty fast. In the dead of winter (low humidity), the Benjamin Moore paint cured in only a few days. However, don’t depend on those results. I pleaded with everyone in the house not to touch the railings for a week until I was sure they would be able to withstand it. True cure time can take up to a month or more if you live in a high-humidity region.

I do plan to finish painting the upstairs banister, but that will be a much bigger project because we need to reinstall it. The end wasn’t anchored properly and it wiggles quite a bit.

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Comments

  1. Hi, This looks beautiful! Can you please share what the Benjamin Moore black paint color is that you used? Was it black beauty? Thank you!

    Reply

    • Great question! My particular store had pints of pre-tinted black, which is what I used. I don’t believe that it was tinted with any particular color, because the can just says black on it.

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  2. Beautiful! I started this project but I think messed up as it doesn’t look “perfect”. I’ll have to do it all over again. What kind of white did you use for the spindles? And did you have to use painters tape to tape near the corners/details so the paint doesn’t spill over?

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    • Oh, I am so sorry that your project did not turn out how you wanted. Since I painted mine in two tone, I painted the white first and although I was careful, I didn’t tape around them. When it came to the black, I did tape around the walls and also the bottom and top of the spindles to prevent oopsies. I just used bright white from Benjamin Moore Advance. I hope you find the look you are wanting! The biggest tip I have is using a good brush and thin coats.

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    • We did remove the handrail on the back wall to paint it. It was impossible to get around every side smoothly without removing it. I painted it in the garage on two sawhorses.

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    • The benjamin Moore paint that I used is excellent at self leveling. Generally speaking, my favorite brushes are these taklon ones. They are soft and flexible and most importantly, inexpensive. I buy them at the craft store like Michaels or Joanns, and they are a lot less than on Amazon. You can also get wider ones generally for painting. I also have this very nice brush, but I wouldn’t recommend something that expensive unless you have lots of projects. A Staalmeester is wonderful lifetime-quality brush.

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  6. So I’m about to tackle the same project on my identical staircase. How is it holding up now a year later? Why did you decide to paint blank instead of stain? Ty!!

    Reply

    • It has been almost 2 years now and it is holding up excellent! It’s actually perfect except one white swipe I have on it. Whatever it was didn’t scratch the paint on the railings, it seems to have transferred paint from something else. The main reason I painted rather than staining at the time is because I didn’t want to sand as much, especially since everything was done in place. These railings have almost no flat areas so it was all done by hand. With paint, I only needed to scuff the surface rather than stripping or sanding down to prep for stain. Strippers also generally have a lot of fumes which would work against doing them in place. However, we have to rebuild an upstairs railing in the future so I have considered taking the entire banister out and staining it to match the floors then.

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      • I have one that goes horizontal that is on a small step up in our den. I want to update it and redo it with something else. Any ideas?

      • Hi Barbara! Many readers send me photos of their projects for ideas so that I can get a real sense of what direction they want to go. It would be hard to know what would work for your particular situation, but feel free to email me at Rachel@cravingsomecreativity.com and maybe I can generate some ideas. I am actually remodeling two sets of stairs this summer for my parent’s house so I have been deep in looking at all kinds of stairwell and step ideas. Hope I can help!

  7. I am getting ready to paint my banister and know from experience how hard it is to keep people from touching it while it dries and cures. Including myself. Do you have any tips or ideas on how to visually remind everyone to not touch it? I would like to put three coats of polyurethane on so it needs to be hands off for quite awhile.

    Reply

    • Great question! I will say that paint and poly definitely dry and cure faster in low humidity conditions, like the middle of winter. Summer curing noticeably takes longer, but after a few days, light touching shouldn’t be a problem either way. For example, I left my cabinet doors open for about a month after poly to avoid surface to surface contact, but we used them as normal. However, I understand that several coats takes a while to apply, so you are definitely right that it would take a while. Unfortunately, I don’t have any great ideas on a physical reminder, outside of a wet paint! sign. However, you could add the polyeurethane by section if you have a large bannister. For example, do all 3 coats of the handrail (the area most likely to be touched) at the same time to keep the amount of “open time” to a minimum, then go back and do the parts that are less likely to be touched (such as the ballusters).

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    • Thank you so much! If you are referring to the wall on the stairwells, that is Oatlands Subtle Taupe at Lowes. Most of my house is painted with that and Asiago. The blue color on the dining room wall is Aquatic Edge, also from Lowes.

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    • I am not actually sure that it has a name as it would be difficult to mix a pure black. They didn’t mix it in store for me, so I think it was just Advance Satin Black and White. Hope that helps!

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  10. Thank you so much for this idea of the two tone. My stairway looks exactly like your before. I also had new hardwood grey floors put in an luckily my son is in the trades so “no labor”!! But painting is my job, he refused to paint!!! So I’m in the process of painting the bookcase shelves on each side of the fireplace in living room and window frames and stairway is next. A lot of work but seeing the change from the old fashioned wood color to white changes the whole room!!! I’ve been working on this project for three months (from working full time to getting a new grandson in the same time frame) it feels like it is taking forever but perfection takes time lol.

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    • Oh you are so right about perfection taking time! I’ve been renovation for a long time now, but I can remember in the beginning stages I was catching myself thinking that it would be like all those tv shows and done in an hour! I just laugh at those thoughts now. And you are very lucky to have a wonderful family that will throw in some free labor for projects! I bet your project looks amazing and what a big transformation.

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