Tired of the look of your stair railings and banister? Learn how to paint stair rails and balusters for an inexpensive upgrade to your home’s aesthetic that also adds significant value when done well.
When we installed new hardwood floors, I was shocked at the price to replace the balusters, railings, and steps. $200 per step and the railings would add several thousand dollars to our project.
That was pretty far outside my budget, so a $50 can of paint looked mighty enticing for painting railings and the balusters. Painting them would be an inexpensive, but high impact upgrade!
Much like painting railings are high-traffic areas. They will be touched, leaned on, and perhaps an occasional child who seems to think they are a new style of jungle gym (or is that just mine?!). This project is a little different from my many projects painting furniture or other surfaces in the home, so I am sharing tips to make the process easier and last for years to come!
Supplies Needed and Recommendations
Over years of remodeling homes, I have developed my no-fail list of products for painting tricky surfaces:
- TSP or Degreaser
- Orbital Palm Sander with 120 or 220 grit sandpaper
- Sanding blocks – I like the ones with the angled edge.
- Stainblocking Primer – Premium or Adhesion is my never-failed-me-ever primer. I don’t use original or any other brand although I have tried several.
- Fine Paintbrushes – A fine furniture paint brush will give you the best finish. In fact, I often use takylon brushes from the craft store for detail work.
- Clean, dry lint-free rags
- Wood Filler – Only for imperfections or filling old hardware
- Benjamin Moore Advance
Note: It is too much work to pull out and reinstall stair rails and balusters, so I paint them with a brush. This is why I recommend a good quality brush to minimize strokes. I detached the single handrail on the right wall because it was rather simple.
Even after a few years of use, the paint looks almost perfectly new!
How to Paint Stair Railing and Spindles
Step 1: Cleaning and Prepping
As with any DIY project, preparation is key to success!
First, everything should be cleaned thoroughly with a degreaser that won’t leave a film. teaspoon works very well, but other readily available cleaners work just as well. Use a microfiber or tack cloth to remove any dirt, debris, and grime.
Step 2: Maximum Bond
Handrails are probably one of the most trafficked surfaces in your home. Therefore, they NEED to be as durable as possible. I recommend that the rails and balusters be sanded to achieve a proper bond. Hand sanding all of this is certainly the worst part of the job, but you really just need to “rough-up” the surface.
Tips:
- There is no need to remove all of the previous varnish and stain. Just remove the glossy finish.
- Use 120 grit sandpaper or 80 grit sanding sponges.
- Flat surfaces can be sanded with an orbital sander to make it faster and easier.
- Try to sand in the direction of the grain.
- I usually sand the handrail where people grab the most a little extra.
Step 3: High Bond Primer (if necessary)
Tape off the spindles first to get a nice edge. Then after a few days of letting the black paint dry, I taped off the rails and painted the spindles.
In my experience, there are a few paints where you can skip priming – Chalk Paint and Fusion Mineral. I will say I don’t like chalk paint for a project like this.
There are, however, situations that I would still use a high-quality stain-blocking primer:
- Painting over dark surfaces (i.e. navy or black) with a light or white color.
- Bad stains like deeply embedded oil or markers.
- Rails with knots in the wood such as knotty pine. <- This is uncommon.
However, if you use other paints, 1 coat of primer is all you need for good coverage and sealing. After using many, many primers, this series of Kilz is my never fail go-to primer.
Step 4: Types of Paint
Since handrails are such a high traffic surface, I recommend a hard enamel-type paint in a satin or semi-gloss finish. Flat or matte paints are generally more likely to blemish and can be harder to clean.
My go to paint for handrails is Benjamin Moore Advance. There are some other paints that I would use, however, they are either more expensive (Sherwin Williams Emerald Line and Benjamin Moore Grand Entrance), have mixed reviews even if I haven’t had a problem (Behr Cabinet Paint), or limited colors (Rustoleum Cabinet Transformations).
Read More>>>> Our thoroughly tested guide to The Best Paint for Furniture.
Pros of these types of paints:
- Hardest Finish that will last!
- No primer needed unless you have stains or knotty wood.
- Does not need a topcoat for durability.
- Smooth self-leveling paint
- Easy to wipe and keep clean (if in a satin or semi-gloss finish)
For this particular project, I used the pre-mixed Advance paint. A quart was more than enough for all of our stair railings. Closeup of Satin Black in Benjamin Moore Advance:
All-in-all, it took me about 4 days to do the railing above, two long handrails attached to the walls, and two smaller sections of banister on the opposite side. I am so happy with the results!
Step 5: Paint Curing Time
In my experience, BM advance does cure pretty fast. In the dead of winter (low humidity), the Benjamin Moore paint cured in only a few days. However, don’t depend on those results.
I pleaded with everyone in the house not to touch the railings for a week until I was sure they would be able to withstand it. True cure time can take up to a month or more if you live in a high-humidity region.
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Expert Tips to Get the Best Finish
- The best paint for painting railings, in my experience, is Benjamin Moore Advance. Unless you have raw wood, it doesn’t require priming! It levels beautifully without brush strokes.
- These are my Favorite Brushes that are soft and don’t leave brush strokes. You can get smaller ones like these paint brushes at Michael’s craft store for under $10.
- Use a one-inch brush to paint details. This makes the paint even, stroke free, and less likely to drip than a larger brush.
- Sand and paint in the direction of the grain.
- Always tape off areas you don’t want to paint. It’s faster, easier, and looks much more professional no matter how steady the hand.
Frequently Asked Questions
My go to paint for handrails is Benjamin Moore Advance. There are some other paints listed in the article that I would use. The most durable paints will be a satin or high-gloss sheen. Do not use a flat paint like chalk paint (unless you use a protective topcoat like polyurethane) on a high traffic piece such as a kitchen table or stair railings.
You can paint or stain a stair railing with durable results if you use a durable topcoat like polyurethane.
Because stair railings are one of the most touched surfaces in a home, it is highly recommended to sand first.
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How To Paint Stair Railings and Banister
Tools
- Paint Brush
Supplies
- TSP or Degreaser
- Sand paper 120 grit for taking finish off, 220 for smoothing
- Sanding Blocks 80 or 120 grit
- Wood Filler Only for imperfections or filling old hardware
- Painter's tape
- Lint-free Microfiber rollers
- Paint trays
- Stainblocking Primer
- Paint
- Protective Top Coat
Instructions
- Clean surface thoroughly with a degreaser that won't leave a film. Tri-Sodium Phosphate works well, as do most commercially available cleaners. Repair scratches with wood filler.
- Sand any glossy varnish or coating off. Sand a little extra on the hand rail, but otherwise you do not need to sand every bit of previous stain or paint off if it is in good condition. Use an orbital sander with 120 grit on all flat surfaces to make this much easier. Spindles will need to be hand sanded with 80 grit sponge or 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum and wipe all dust off of the panels before priming.
- Tape around surfaces to prevent paint spilling.
- If painting white or light colors, prime the railings with a quality primer. Kilz Premium (not original) is my no-fail primer. 1 coat of primer is sufficient. Allow to dry 24-48 hours.
- Brush 2 coats of paint for full coverage. Brush with the grain and always from one end to the other. If paint starts to dry, don't go back over it.
Notes
- Knots – use a shellac based primer
- Gooey stuff/adhesive – I like Goo Gone for gooey messes, but make sure to clean off with a degreaser afterwards to remove any residue.
- Grease stains – clean with a good degreaser like Simple Green to break up what you can.
- Permanent Marker/food coloring/other – Clean as best you can and then prime at least two coats.
- Get the right tools. A few extra dollars will save you a lot of heartache and frustration. I have a helpful post on painting without brush strokes here. I prefer fine taklon brushes.
- Tape off any edges you don’t want painted such as connectors to the wall.
Helene says
If I use a paint I already have..could I use a lacker over
the paint to protect the paint
Rachel says
I don’t know what paint you have to know if that will work specifically, because many paints won’t bond well enough to a project like this to last. A poly or other topcoat protects the finish and may make it easier to clean but won’t prevent chips, peeling, or scratches if the paint isn’t well bonded or durable enough. I have only ever used lacquer to keep brass or copper from tarnishing, not as a paint topcoat.
TammyJ says
Hi! I hope you see this! Did you only use Kilz on the wood you painted white and just used the black on the wood directly without Kilz? I’ve sanded all wood and getting ready to paint! Your makeover is fantastic and inspiring! Thanks!
Rachel says
I admit that I only used kilz with the white surface, but I generally would recommend the kilz if you can get it dark. At the time, I only had a can of white kilz, which would have made painting black over top much more difficult.
Beth Ashworth says
Did you change out the hardware on the handrail attached to the wall?
Rachel says
We did change the hardware, but I think we only did that for aesthetic reasons. We changed it from a cheap set that was a gold color to a stainless steel or silver color.
Nikki says
What color did you paint the handrail on the wall?
Rachel says
It is also black.
Nicole says
Love the way this looks! Did you remove the railing on the wall when you painted it or did you leave it attached? I’m trying to figure out how to give it even coverage. Thanks!
Rachel says
Yes, I removed the one attached to the wall because I couldn’t paint the inside without doing so. I left the other side with the white balusters in place to sand and paint.
Jennifer says
What colour of white paint did you use in this particular project?
Thank you
Lauri says
I love the colors you chose. I agree that BM Advance is amazing paint! I am painting our basement stairwell walls & trim white, replacing the carpet with a blue/gray, and not sure what to do with the handrail. The stairwell has medium brown wooden doors at the top and bottom which I don’t plan to paint. The handrail is also brown wood, but I would love to paint it. Do you have any color suggestions?
Rachel says
You don’t have to stick to the same color as the wood. You can use a white to brighten it or maybe even the same color as the trim or the walls in your house. Those are usually my go-tos because I must have liked those colors to use them.
Barbara says
Hi! Love the banister! I am going to do the same, so thank you!! What color paint did you use on your walls?
Rachel says
Thank you! The wall color is Valspar Oatlands Subtle Taupe.
Kim says
Hi! The railings look great. What color paint did you use? I’m trying to find a nice dark brown and yours looks great
Rachel says
I use a pre-mixed Black in BM Advance. It isn’t a particular shade, just black.
Millicent Estep says
Hi there, I have stripped my wide hand railings in our beach house and used wood filler in some of the gouched areas. The railings have sat for over a year like this, since I am unsure of what products to use. I want to go for a stained look on the wide hand railings. I used just a white paint in the past and it just doesnt seem to work. I planned on the following the steps:
1. Which wood cleaner to remove oils from our hands and dust?
2. Clear Kilz since I want a stained look
3. Which stain would you recommend?
4 Which sealer would you recommend?
Your advice and help is greatly appreciated. Would love to talk.
Your help is greatly appreciated, since is the second time in 8 years that I stripped my railings. Oils from our hands have peeled off the paint where our hands hit the railings.
Rachel says
Paints have changed greatly over the last 8 years and many have increased their durability to equal or above stain + polyurethane. So that is still an option if you like, but it is highly important to get the right products no matter which way you go. Buying a can of wall paint from the local home improvement store definitely results in heartache for a project like this. I will answer your questions in the same order you asked.
1. Any good degreaser that doesn’t leave a residue will work. I have used TSP, simple green, krud kutter, etc and they all work fine. Just make absolutely sure no residue is left as that will soak into any exposed wood. I clean before sanding/stripping.
2. If staining, you don’t need a primer like kilz at all.
3. The only stain I don’t like at all is anything called Gel Stain. I hate how it looks and how it feels. Brands like varathane, sherwin williams, general finishes, and minwax are fine. Finding the color you like best is the harder part. I do like to use a wood conditioner first sometimes, but not always necessary.
4. Check with a particular sealer that it is compatible with stain. Most oil based polyurethane are compatible with stain and some water-borne or water based polyurethanes are but not all. For poly, I really like Bona Floor Poly. It has a beautiful matte option and not too bad to work with and level. Bona Traffic HD has the highest durability and is considered commercial grade which means it’s good enough for busy restaurants and retail stores, so it will certainly hold up in a home. They have a few different products for different types of projects, and different price points.
I hope that helps and feel free to ask any follow up if you need!
Nancy says
I need to use Sherwin Williams paint. I have looked at the Emerald line of paints and am confused as to which one I use. My stair handrails are current stained with a gloss finish and my island is painted with oil-based paint. All of the Emerald paints are latex. Can I use latex paint over these two surfaces if I use the Kilz? Which Emerald do you recommend? The reviews are mixed – any tips?
Rachel says
I completely understand. Sherwin Williams keeps changing and adding new paints and lines (some you have to special order!). The one that I have used on cabinets is the Emerald Urethane. However, I am always trying to test new products. I am currently waiting on a backorder of Sherwood CAB Acrylic Lacquer to try with Insl-x Cabinetcoat (from Home Depot) because I hear great things about it as well.