How To Paint Laminate Furniture

Melamine or other Laminate surfaces can be a total nightmare to paint, but I am hoping to clear up any confusion on getting a professional looking paint job on these tricky surfaces.

I have been painting furniture and cabinets for myself and clients for many years. Of course, I have learned a lot about the do’s and don’ts of painting furniture to last and look great for years, not months.

And I have included all of my best tips, experiences, and professional products that will ensure a good bond that won’t fail.

I am using my husband’s treasured desk as an example for this tutorial. It belonged to my father-in-law and my husband used to stack army men in front of it. I remember the day they called to say they were throwing it out. My husband’s eyes lit up as he choked out an emphatic “Of course I want it!”

So, you better believe I was under pressure to get this desk makeover right!

Laminate vs Veneer Wood

First, I want to set out some definitions, so we are on the same page.

Veneer refers to a layer of real wood that has been applied to a substrate that can be any number of materials. Furniture grade Maple Plywood is an example of a veneer. Veneers are often used in large straight pieces of furniture because it is structurally more stable than solid wood. It won’t warp or expand/contract as much as a single solid piece of wood. Oftentimes you can sand and refinish veneer, as long as you don’t go through that first layer.

How To Identify Laminate

Because laminate is often made to closely mimic natural materials such as wood or marble, it can sometimes be difficult to identify precisely. There are a few ways to try to identify it.

1. By touch. Often times, laminate won’t have the same feel as wood and may sound different. If you tap on it with your fingernail, it may make a plasticky sounding noise.
2. Check the pattern. Closely inspect the surface at an angle. Sometimes, there is what looks like a wood grain, but upon closer inspection, the grain doesn’t line up to the printed pattern. Or the material may wrap around the edges of a drawer, but there is no end grain that you would expect from a solid wood material.
3. Large surfaces. It is actually rather rare that a single very large surface is solid wood. Take, for example, the sides of our entertainment center. They are 20 inches by 7 feet. They are a plywood veneer, but I didn’t even have to look to know they wouldn’t be solid wood. It’s not as structurally stable, nor cost effective for furniture companies to use slabs of wood like that.
4. Look at edges and inside surfaces. To cut cost, areas that aren’t seen are often left naked so you can see the construction materials. These areas include inside of drawers, the backs of dressers or even underneath the item. Even if it’s stained dark, sometimes you can see that the wood takes up the stain at different rates.

Recommended Tools and Supplies

First, the quality of your paint job is only going to be as good as the products you use.

• A good cleaner that won’t leave a residue.
• Orbital Sander – (Optional – read “Do I have to Sand?” section for more information).
• Sandpaper – 120 grit for sander
• Painter’s Tape
• Paint Brush – my favorite for a smooth finish is 1.5-inch taklon brushes you can buy at Michael’s and other craft stores. I have also used Wooster Angled Brushes and Purdy.
• Microfiber rollers – smooth surfaces that won’t shed
• Supplies for Any Needed Repairs
• Something to Stir the Paint with
• Drop Cloths
• Blocks of wood or a table – to paint the bottom edges if you will be moving the furniture
• Primer – I only confidently recommend Kilz Adhesion and INSL-X Stix Bonding Primer (available at Ace Hardware and Benjamin Moore Stores)
• Paint

How to Prep Laminate Furniture for Painting

Step 1: Remove hardware and parts

The first step when painting furniture is to remove the drawers, door fronts, and any hardware present so that only the frame is left. Sometimes, after painting the frame, I will place the drawers back on to paint them in place.

Step 2: Repair

If you are changing out the hardware to a different size, fill any holes from the old hardware. Also, repair any scratches or dings. You can use epoxy to make small repairs in plastic laminate or wood filler if you have paper printed materials. If the melamine or formica layer is loose from the substrate, make sure to reattach it with a construction adhesive and allow to dry.

Step 2: Clean

While many tutorials (even some of mine) recommend cleaning with TSP, you can use any kind of cleaner that won’t leave a residue. I’ve used krud cutter, goo-b-gone for sticky messes, sometimes just water.

Make sure to clean everything, even if it isn’t directly on the surface that you are painting. Use a toothbrush for crevices. Make that baby sparkle!

Do I Need to Sand?

There are many different types of laminated surfaces, and many can’t be sanded. However, I am going to say that it depends. Overall, I am still a fan of sanding with 120 grit and a random orbital sander (if you can) because any additional grip you can get is only going to increase the bond.

Printed paper laminate– I have both sanded and not sanded these surfaces for priming with success. The ones I did sand it was because only a small section of a large cabinet or dresser project was printed laminate and I didn’t want to buy a second primer. I have never had a problem there.

Melamine or hard plastic laminate – Test in a very inconspicuous area if you wish. Most of the harder plastics won’t sand very well if at all. Don’t push it if it isn’t working.

If you don’t own a really good random orbital sander – just skip sanding. Hand sanding is most likely just going to make swirl marks and painful hands.

Prime (VERY IMPORTANT!)

The primer that you use is a major contributor to the success or failure of your finish long term. No one wants to redo a paint job in a year or two. Anything that says paint + primer does not count.

In my humble opinion, there are only a few primers I trust with a job this tricky – Stix^® Waterborne Bonding Primer or Kilz Adhesion. I have not tested Behr’s Bonding Primer, but that may be a more available option. These are a bit more expensive than your standard primers, but so very worth it for the peace of mind they bring. You can also use these primers on any wood surface, no need to buy a different kind.

Two coats of primer will give good coverage.

Painting: Quick Tips for a Smooth Finish

• Always test your paint and primer. I sometimes perform a scratch test in an inconspicuous place several days or a week after priming and painting. Although paint may take up to 30 days to reach maximum hardness, this will let me know how successful the bond is.
• Some paints like a microfiber roller, others like a dense foam roller, so be sure to test both or search out the info.
• Always brush in one direction, end to end.
• Always brush the details first, and then roll the flat section. Like if I am doing a drawer front, I brush the edges and then immediately roll the flat front.
• From a beginner standpoint, you want brushes that are soft, long bristled, and don’t separate when you apply pressure.
• You can read our top tips for painting without brush marks here.

Sealing with a Top Coat

This is another step that I feel is essential generally to a long-lasting finish when working with this surface. There are a few paints that don’t require a polyacrylic topcoat for maximum durability but check with the manufacture. Personally, I usually still add one. You can read our best topcoats for furniture recommendations here.