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How to Protect Painted Furniture with a Top Coat Poly

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Looking for the best options to protect your painted furniture? Read on to learn more about using poly (polycrylic/polyacrylic and water-based polyurethane) to protect your furniture pieces from stains and scratches.

How to protect painted furniture from scratches and stains. Includes information on my experience with different brands of polyacrylic and polyurethane, best practices, and durability.

 

Most people who look up painting furniture will see tutorial after tutorial about the virtues of furniture paint and chalk paint such as Annie Sloan, Country Chic, or CeCe Caldwell. And there are many positives including hiding small flaws and less prepwork than other types of paint. In fact, many of you have probably transformed a few pieces in your home with paint. It’s a really fun and slightly addicting hobby, to be sure!

One of the most common worries that I see from clients, friends, and readers is about the durability of any painted project. How do I protect my painted furniture? Can I scrub it? Will it show fingerprints or smudges?

These are all very valid questions and today I am answering these burning questions. You can see several of our other furniture transformations here.

Protecting-Painted-Furniture-Country-Chic-Midnight-Blue

 

Wax vs Poly for Durability

There are essentially two kinds of protecting top coats for furniture projects: wax and poly. This is actually important since they act in very different ways, and for the most part we will treat Water-based Polyurethane and Polyacrylic/polycrylic as the same since they both can be used to protect painted surfaces. However, unless the directions specify, oil-based polyurethane is used for stained surfaces. I could write whole articles dedicated to the differences between wax and water based polyurethane, but for the purposes of this article, water-based polyurethane provides much more durability and protection over time than wax does.

That isn’t to say that you should always use a polyurethane however. Wax provides an aesthetic that Poly cannot match and that is an important distinction.

To be fair, I am not a huge fan of wax unless it is dark wax for the purpose of antiquing a piece. In fact, wax can even be used over water based poly! I would highly recommend a flat or low sheen poly in this case, and the wax must be the last coat. I usually recommend this way of doing dark wax on low traffic pieces (not table tops) or in recesses like ornate table legs because it is easier to manage and wipes off easier if you get too much.

The Differences in Sheen for a polyacrylic and chalk paint

When You Should Add Extra Protection to Painted Furniture

My house is rowdy with boys, large dogs, and general mayhem around the clock. Feet on furniture and loud bangs are a pretty normal occurrence. Although no finish is going to be bullet proof, poly is going to provide the best protection option. I do not always use a top coat and some paints are perfectly fine without it. For example, my entertainment center does not have a top coat but the paint itself is an acrylic emulsion paint. For high traffic pieces (any table top, kitchen cabinets, kids furniture), I definitely recommend a top coat to provide the best protection to your painted furniture.

For almost all dark matte paints, I like to use a poly or wax as well. Dark colors tend to show smudges, fingerprints, and dust more easily. I want to be able to wipe those surfaces so I love that poly provides that extra protection that makes surfaces scrubbable. An example is my craft room cabinets- I spilled a quart of paint down the front of my white painted cabinets and carpet. They were protected with a thick poly so after wiping them off, there isn’t a stain or change at all and they were easy to wipe off.

One other place that I highly recommend using a top coat is in humid areas such as bathrooms or kitchens.  A satin or higher sheen in a kitchen/bath is also a good idea to keep the paint looking good.Flat-vs-Satin-Sheen-Chalk-Paint-FurnitureUsing Polyacrylic and Sheen Changes

In the above picture, I painted two side tables for a friend using Country Chic Chalk Paint in Midnight Blue. Dark colors tend to show dust and fingerprints more easily. Since I knew these pieces would be going to a home of rowdy boys (like my own), I asked the client if she would like me to add some additional protection in the form of a polyacrylic.

I did warn her of one thing…a top coat will change the sheen on chalk paint.  In the above picture, the right side table has no top coat on it, while the left side is sprayed in two coats of Benjamin Moore Polyacrylic in Satin. For many of my projects, I use and recommend this sprayer and this spray shelter to keep over-spray to a minimum.

 

How much of a change depends on which brand you use, but what I love about a top coat is also that it tends to deepen and make the colors slightly richer.

So what brands of Poly have I used and recommend?
Country-Chic-Midnight-Blue-Painted-Tables

 

Fusion Mineral Tough Coat

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BUY IT HERE

This is a matte poly that you wipe on with a clean, folded cheesecloth. Although I like the final sheen of it being pretty true to matte, I have found it a bit difficult to work with. For most Fusion Mineral paint projects, I often don’t use a top coat like on our entertainment center makeover.

Pros:

  • Cures much quicker than other brands I have worked with, a few days in normal humidity (less than 60%).
  • Beautiful matte sheen.
  • It is scratch resistant, and does not yellow or alter the paint colors.
  • Wipe On Application

Cons:

  • Dries very quickly and has a very short working time.
  • Make sure you turn it upside down for 30 minutes before applying and then gently shake to evenly disburse the ingredients.
  • I have had some trouble in the past with streaks, but not always.

Here is a dresser project that I did with Fusion Mineral’s Tough Coat. It does have a nice matte sheen.

General Finishes Poly Acrylic

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I do like this General Finishes Flat Out Flat, especially with a paint sprayer. For my projects, it is the best and most flat sheen option that I have used. It isn’t quite as durable as the High Performance Polyurethane (which does have a flat option) or the ultra-durable Enduro Clear Poly. Links include purchasing information.

Pros:

  • Beautiful product that can be brushed or sprayed.
  • The sheen tends to be more matte than other polys that I have tried.
  • They also have a High Performance Polyurethane that is very good quality if you are looking for a higher sheen and increased durability.

Cons:

  • Most Expensive Brand.

Grey Desk Brass Fixtures Painting a desk

This desk was originally finished in chalky finish paint and I sprayed General Finishes Flat Poly Acrylic as a top coat.

Minwax Poly (both wipe-on and regular polycrylic can be purchased here)

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I will be perfectly honest. I know you guys are probably wondering about the best budget option for painting your piece. And here it is: Minwax Poly. However, I will give a caution to you. Especially with white or pale colors, I have read about and personally seen this product turn yellow with certain brands of paint, usually cheaper brands of paint. There is some sort of chemical reaction that happens that causes this. By far, most users of this product have not seen a problem, so I would do a test on a scrap piece of wood and let it sit for a few days before finishing your piece.

Pros:

Cons:

  • I have personally seen this product turn yellow and streaky over white paint.

Benjamin Moore Stays Clear

Benwood-Stays-Clear-Acrylic-Polyurethane--USA-Benjamin-Moore--Co-L-Sweets-1102494

My personal favorite for a satin/eggshell sheen (called low lustre). I put this finish on my son’s dresser and around his desk and it has held up beautifully with almost no scratches. He is very hard on furniture.

Pros:

  • Best durability I have every seen.
  • I have used this on several projects with many different paints (including latex because…long story) and it has NEVER yellowed.
  • Several sheens including flat, low lustre, and high gloss. I have not tried the flat but I want to.

Cons:

  • It can be brushed, but it is much better thinned by 10% and used with a paint sprayer.
  • Generally, has a very long cure time.
  • Slightly harder to find (my Benjamin Moore Store only carries gallon size) and expensive.
  • Can only be purchased at a Benjamin Moore Store.

 

This table was top coated with with Benjamin Moore Stays Clear. I put several coats on this since it is a dining room table, but you can see the sheen on the base. Heavier or more coats will have a longer cure time. For example, with cabinets I know they are cured when I can shut the door for 24 hours without sticking.

Vintage Dresser Makeover

This dresser is also in low lustre sheen but I got a better sprayer made for furniture and I did three thinner coats.

Final Thoughts on How to Protect Painted Furniture

Several products will do the job flawlessly if you follow the instructions. There are a few best practices such as making sure you completely stir the poly before use and occasionally during application to keep the ingredients in suspension. As with any paint project, do not use in high (>80%) or very low humidity. I also try to avoid direct sunlight and allow the piece to fully cure before setting items on it such as heavy lamps or other painted materials.

Have fun with your project! Feel free to ask any questions or give your experience with these products in the comments below.

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Comments

  1. I read your comments to a person that had used latex wall paint on their cupboards…you mentioned that applying a polyurethane coat would not fix the problem of chipping paint….I thought the person I hired to paint our cabinets knew what she was doing…she painted them with a latex wall paint after I used tsp on them and Krud Kutter and sanded them and primed them with Sherwin William’s Extreme Bond primer on most of them…not all of them..it says the paint needs to cure for 30 days…I have seen some places where the paint has chipped off in tiny places and didnt know if it was because the paint hasn’t cured long enough or that it might need to be sealed. I am so disappointed and concerned that it was all for naught. Please let me know what you think about applying a polyurethane and if so would I be able to apply before the curing time is satisfied or if I need to start over. If so…what would be the steps. Thank you JoAnn

    Reply

    • I am so sorry to hear your experience! Unfortunately, it is very common. I would say nearly half of my projects with clients are fixing terrible workmanship, often by “professionals”. First, I commend you for prepping the cabinets very well. I wish I could find the comment you referenced, because each situation can be unique. Secondly, curing just means that the paint is dry to the touch but hasn’t reached maximum hardness. If I knew what brand/line of paint your painter used, I would be able to be of more help, because they aren’t all created equal and some paints you could get away with a good layer of poly. Most likely, you would be just fine patching those areas, and then putting a poly over the paint and it will give it much more durability. I have done that when there is minimal damage. However, I am hesitant to guarantee that because what if the person you hired used bargain brand walmart paint or something and there are more problems than I am aware of. For instance, there is a difference between “peeling” and “chipping”. If it is chipping, that you can probably get away with adding a poly. Peeling means that the paint isn’t bonding properly, and at that point, I would probably recommend sanding to the primer and repainting.
      I have a funny question for you actually. Despite dozens of projects and cabinets, I just used Sherwin Williams Extreme Bond Primer for the first time on the set of cabinets. I noticed that the Extreme Bond Primer started turning yellow (leaching), and I couldn’t find anything on the gallon that said stain-blocking. So I put a layer of Kilz Premium over top of that, but I was wondering your experience with the Sherwin Williams. Did you notice any yellowing or leaching?

      Reply

      • No I have not noticed any yellowing…. The paint she used is called Clark&Kensington primer in one paint from Ace Hardware and it also says on the can that it is premium interior semi-gloss enamel- 100% acrylic latex enamel w/ ceramic microbeads technology. It also says it is ideal for kitchens, bathrooms and utility rooms. What I have seen is chipping I think. I put new knobs on the cabinets but when I took one back off…I noticed the paint came off underneath the knob…should it do that? …should I lightly sand that area and repaint the area…wait til it cures…which by the way says it needs 2-4 weeks before washing the painted areas.. Does that mean the cure time? And then could I apply a polyurethane coating? Thank you for your tips. 😊

      • Full disclosure, I don’t have any experience with that particular paint, and you are right it is definitely the wrong paint for lots of reasons. I would have went with Ace’s Cabinet and Trim paint before that, although I have other preferences that I use personally. I would assume that the paint is not cured yet, which can take 1 week – 60 days depending on the paint and the relative humidity, how many coats, and temperature in the house. Semi-gloss does take longer than flat as well. So, 30 days is a happy medium. Polyacrylic/topcoats also have a cure time about the same. The fact that it isn’t cured is most likely what caused the door knob to pull the paint, especially if in an area that receives direct sunlight. (Sidenote- I know way too much about paint apparently, lol) I usually advise clients to leave cabinet doors and drawers slightly open for at least a few weeks and then start by closing for 1 hour, 5 hours, 12 hours…2 days, and see if you hear a sticking sound when you open the doors. Generally if paint to paint contact doesn’t sound sticky after 48 hours, you should be good. You can apply the poly anytime you like, now, later, whenever. Just make sure you are adding over a clean surface. While I don’t recommend that paint, I understand wanting a break from a big project. You could try to let it finish curing, live with it, and see if it becomes durable enough for your standards. You can always touch up later and poly. I hope that you get the results you hope for.

  2. Thank you for this article! I’m thrilled with the way my desk came out, except for the top. I blue-taped the edges then poly’d the top for extra protection. When I removed the tape, the poly peeled off with it!! I sanded it all down and redid it without tape, but I’m worried that the poly isn’t really bonding to the paint. Maybe I should do it again, and do the poly while the paint is still tacky? Any other ideas/suggestions?

    Thank you!!!!

    Kate

    Reply

    • Oh no, I am sorry you had to do all that work over again! What probably happened was that the poly was too dry. If you think about it, paint, poly, and other coatings dry from the outside-in. Often what we feel as “dry” isn’t really dry underneath the top layer exposed to air. So the tape pulled the poly off because the hardened outside grabbed onto the tape. I generally pull tape off as soon as I am done- i.e. when the poly or paint is still wet. That helps prevents chipping or flaking. It takes a long time for poly to fully cure, anywhere from a few days to 2 months depending on product, thickness applied, and the humidity where you live. While it is possible that a product failure is happening (I am not sure what brand of paint was used), it is pretty unlikely that the poly isn’t sticking to the paint. It just needs to harden. I hope that makes you feel better and glad to hear that your project turned out great!

      Reply

  3. Hi! Great article and very informative. I recently had a dresser and a bed frame painted with Benjamin Moore paint and the girl who did it finished it off with a coat of wax in matte. I had been hoping for more of a semi gloss. My question is, is it possible to put either a coat of more glossy wax over the top or could I also go with a semi gloss polyurethane? My only concern about the current matte wax is that it will not last as long and may not be as easily cleaned. Thanks so much!

    Reply

    • Hi Anna, what a bummer. Sheen is one of the first questions I always ask clients, so I am so sorry for that your project didn’t turn out as you hoped. Unfortunately, you are faced with a challenging situation and, without seeing the piece, and knowing the products used, I can’t guarantee the outcome you want. The problem is that nothing can ever be put over wax – not poly, not paint, or even primer in most cases. In fact, if you wanted to refinish the piece again at some point, you would probably have to strip it chemically. The issue is that nothing truly bonds to wax. That being said, you could try a glossier wax, like a polishing wax, and that is probably your safest bet. However, and this is just my personal opinion, it could make imperfections more noticeable. Imperfections isn’t the right word, more like brush strokes or any unevenness. Sheen changes can also change the depth of color, making colors appear richer or darker than before. I would seriously consider testing a scrap piece or a place that isn’t noticeable on the bed and dresser before deciding to through with it. However, the good news is that if she used BM cabinet paint, the paint itself is very durable and should not have too many problems keeping it clean. The wax should harden and I use a lint free cloth to clean all of my pieces. I tend to stay away from furniture polishes on my painted furniture. I wish I could give better advice and better news.

      Reply

  4. Wow, this site is amazing! Thank you so much! I am currently painting my kitchen cupboards cream. I will definitely use the Stays Clear and will not worry about it yellowing. I chalked painted my island last year and used MinWax polyurethane and it did turn yellow. I had to repaint and then I used Rustoleum’s chalk paint topcoat and it actually worked really well but it will cost me a fortune
    to buy my suppy in quart cans.
    Just wondering what you recommend. It looks like 3 coats will have to do the job of chalkpaint. How long do I leave between coats of chalk paint? Should I brush or roll? A paint sprayer sounds scary and messy. How long should I let it cure before I apply Stays clear?
    And how long should I wait before I apply my second coat of Stays Clear? And how many coats would you recommend of Stays Clear on kitchen cupboards? Would 2 coats suffice?

    Reply

    • Hi! Thank you for your kind words and I totally understand about a sprayer being scary and messy. There is definitely a learning curve, but one coat for 10-15 cabinet doors takes less than 30 minutes so that’s nice. What brand of chalk paint you use determines whether it is best to be brushed or rolled. I would brush in tight spaces that can’t be rolled but to use a roller for the majority. It is faster and you won’t have as many brush strokes. I actually have a post on painting furniture without brush marks here. My personal recommendation is to use a smaller sized microfiber roller for the smoothest finish. Sometimes the dense foam rollers can leave bubbles in certain paints. However, brushes do give a hand-painted vintage style, which some of my clients like so I have used brushes solely before.
      Different brands of chalk paints have different times between coats, and the can should say on it how long to wait. I usually give everything a few days in low humidity before adding Stays Clear. I mostly want to make sure that any paint has had a chance to out-gas (remove any fumes basically) before sealing it. For the stays clear, a microfiber roller works well and a brush if you don’t want to spray. The biggest thing here is to make sure that you don’t try to touch up the stays clear after it becomes tacky. I lay it on quickly and smooth it out in one stroke end to end. Here is a great video on painting techniques: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSCAUmynIKI (the video is for Fusion Mineral Paint which I love, but the techniques are applicable to any paint and brush. You can skip the first 1:00 because you don’t necessarily need that brush). Two coats of stays clear would suffice, if brushing, possibly even one depending on how thickly it goes on during your coat. I try to keep my coats pretty thin for all paints and top coats to create a smoother finish and no drips. My kitchen island where we eat all of our meals has three sprayed coats for extra protection (spraying is always thinner than brushing) and it looks brand new when I clean all of the kick prints and spills off of it. I hope that answers your questions! Good luck with your project!

      Reply

  5. Hi, I´m new to the world of painting and finishing wood but I just wanted to say that this is the best and most thorough explanation I’ve read so far on this subject. Thanks so much!

    Reply

    • Oh, thank you so much! We have a lot of articles on refinishing furniture because I have done many pieces. If you ever have a question or need some advice, feel free to comment or send me an email. It may take a few days as I am always in the middle of one or four DIY projects, but I always answer. Thank you again!

      Reply

  6. Hi,

    I love your blog! I have a question, I re-stained and finished a table top with 5 coats of Minwax Polyacrilic and it turned out great. However I’m noticing I have trouble taking care of it. I wiped it down with a damp rag (this was about 2 weeks after finishing) and now it’s looking kind of patchy/streaky where I wiped it? Help! I really love refinishing furniture and would one day love to turn my hobby into a career but I wouldn’t want this to happen to a potential client. How do you care for polyacrilic?

    Reply

    • Hi Kristy. I am so sorry this happened to you, but take heart, I don’t think you did anything wrong. In fact, Minwax polycrylic is designed to be cleaned and wiped with a damp rag. Although I use a different product generally, I have even used things like green scrubby pads to get dirt off of top coated furniture. Obviously, something is happening though. The first thing I would try would be to clean it again with a fresh, slightly damp cloth making sure that it wasn’t some sort of residue left behind. No abrasive cleaners, but a tiny bit of mild dish soap should be fine. If that doesn’t fix it, it is possible that the minwax is reacting to the stain somehow. Polycrylic is designed for use with Minwax water based stains. I have personally seen your product turn streaky, but that was over paint products. If you used a oil-based or oil-modified stain or sometimes even a different brand, this scenario is possible. Unless you used a very light stain, I doubt that it is tannins (coloring like you see in wood knots) leeching into the poly. I hope that helps and let me know if you are able to figure it out!

      Reply

      • Thank you so much for your reply!! Wow that is crazy, I didnt even think about that! In his perticular instance, I did not use stain. I bleached the wood in the sun and then white washed it with a wash made from water and regular water based latex paint. I will definitely keep this in mind. I really appreciate your help!

  7. hi. I just spray painted my kitchen table and chair set with Rust-Oleum satin finish black. I did put two Rust-Oleum coating layer on top. I’m finding that the black is very dusty on the surfaces of the table and the bench and I also want to protect the top of the table more so after we use it I can actually wash it with a washcloth. What can I put on that to make it more protected?

    Reply

    • Hi Roberta! Yes, black is always a problem with dust. I am not sure if you spray painted it with Rustoleum or used a furniture paint (they have tons of products). Either way, any of the above products should work fine with it. You won’t have any worries of turning yellow on black, but I would stick to a satin finish poly since you have and seem to like the satin finish.

      Reply

  8. I’m refinishing a dresser and have been using semigloss paint I had leftover from another project. I basically ran out of paint on the last coat, so the finish is a little patchy on top. Will adding a poly coat even that out? Or do I need to go buy more paint? Thanks for your help!

    Reply

    • Hi! Could you describe what you mean by patchy? If you mean you sanded the layer before the last coat, I would probably sand a bit on the top layer to even it out. The furniture will adopt whatever the finish of the top coat is. For example, if you were to use a satin poly over chalk paint, the final finish would be satin (but a bit less satin than putting it over a satin if that makes sense). I wish I understood better, because, honestly, it could even it out, or make it worse depending on what you painted it with. Let me know if you have any more questions.

      Reply

  9. Hi, Just painted bedroom side table with Fusion Mineral paint in Chocolate. I wanted more of a satin finish so I sprayed with minwax Polycrylic finish. I got white streaks in finish. Sanded and gave it another coat of paint. My question is I have Fusion tough coat that I used on white coffee table, but Fusion doesn’t recommend it for dark colors. I also have a can of GF Arm-R-Seal oil and urethane. I read that these products have zinc oxide in them and also may streak. Would you suggest regular poly in satin finish or try one of these.

    Reply

    • I admit that I am not very familiar with General Finishes Arm-R-Seal, although it appears to be a good varnish for stain, not paint. So I wouldn’t recommend that. In your case, I would advise testing the tough coat on a piece of scrap wood painted with the Chocolate paint. That way you don’t have to sand and redo if it fails. To be completely honest, since you want a satin finish, my favorite super-durable satin paint is Benjamin Moore’s Advance Alkyd Paint. It’s made for high traffic areas, doesn’t require a top-coat, and can be brushed on pretty well. I talk more about how I decide what paints to use in this post. I have my stair hand rails painted in it, and I have been very impressed with how well they are holding up.

      Reply

  10. Hi! Thanks so much for the great advice! The problem I’m running in to with figuring out which products to use is we are using our Lowes credit card to do our renovations. We’ve renovated our living room, pulling up the old carpet and refinishing the 60-year-old hardwood floors underneath. Painting, new light fixtures, new baseboard, the works. Now, I’m on to the furniture. I’ve got my grandparents’ old dining set that I am wanting to paint white with chalk paint and of course, have the most durable protection on it possible without changing the color. What products would you recommend for this project that can be purchased at Lowes?

    Reply

    • The best that I know of for a top coat poly is minwax that is sold at Lowe’s usually. The paint department may have a newer product in your area, but that has been my budget go-to. The only worry is painting something in white or light colors as I have seen it turn certain paint brands yellow. I would just test a small board with the chalk paint and check first. If you are looking for chalk paint, I have a pretty good recipe here: https://www.cravingsomecreativity.com/best-paints-for-furniture-painting/ (also very budget friendly)

      Reply

  11. I am so thankful that you are choosing to share your wealth of information with everyone. At the risk of sounding completely ignorant (self confession- I am!) can you please tell me about sanding? I have a desk- chalk painted a dark color. It’s not a masterpiece- I’m really just trying to learn to do things correctly- and I will eventually get another desk. I purchased flat water based poly. I’ve used poly before: spar and some other items but apparently never read the directions- which would have been a good start! I never sanded… so do I sand the paint first? Then do a light coat of poly and sand again? I’m working on not being so heavy handed and rushed- I have a sander – that’s been hidden from me as I tend to oversamd everything. I get it now- I think? I would be sanding lightly, right? I just wondered if chalk paint made a difference in the poly application procedure and if it’s standard to sand prior to initial poly application. I’m not sure what or why I’m sanding?

    Reply

    • Sounds like you are doing great and have a wealth of experience actually! You do not need to sand the paint to add the poly – unless their are oils or dirt that you can’t easily get off and then I would very lightly sand just to get that off the top surface. I never sand the final coat of paint – unless I’m distressing that is. I assume your piece has been sitting a while, so you may want to look into how you can clean it without damaging the paint, before applying the poly. The only reason to ever sand paint is to keep it smooth. You don’t even need to sand between layers of paint although I have seen it recommended by other bloggers (and I actually have no idea why?) You also don’t NEEEEED to sand between coats of poly, if you think it’s smooth enough to your liking. Brush strokes over brush strokes can sometimes get out of hand, but I rarely see that with the application type you are talking about. I would only recommend sanding after a few coats if you were putting something like 5-7 coats of poly on and you wanted a glass-like gloss to the surface. Chalk paint doesn’t have any effect on the procedure really. I hope that makes sense. In short, skip the sanding unless you have some specific reason mentioned above. 🙂 Hope that helps!

      Reply

  12. Hello!
    This is by FAR the most useful post on finishes I’ve found & I have done a LOT of searching, so THANKS!

    Here is my dilemma, I originally painted my Craigslist cabinets white with chalk paint. I waxed them but wasn’t thrilled with the waxing process & thought it was kind of a pain in the….
    My house also has rowdy boys (4 in fact) and large dogs plus we live in the country and white cabinets proved to be a HORRIBLE choice!
    I recently started repainting them using French Linen. Then I used a satin polyurethane and applied 3 coats.

    I am NOT happy with the satin sheen. My cabinets look too streaky & shiny during certain times of the day but I’m worried that using a matte or flat polyurethane won’t provide the “cleanability” and durability that is necessary for kitchen cabinets!

    Any advice, opinions or suggestions are greatly appreciated!

    Reply

    • Thank you so much for your comment! What a nightmare, but I totally feel you on living with boys. The bottom white dresser in this post has been in my son’s room for two years and although he put a very large gash in the top, it is otherwise good as new. And he is ROUGH on furniture. That’s why I love poly! I can’t imagine trying to paint cabinets again. What a pain!

      Anyways, there are a few ways to get over the streakiness. At first, it sounds like you brushed on the satin poly, but using a sprayer produces much more even results. Sprayers do have a bit of a learning curve to them, and take some testing to get used to, but they are faster, more even, and I can’t imagine being without one for many of my large projects. An entire kitchen of cabinet doors takes maybe 15-20 minutes per coat. Here is the sprayer that I recommend generally, if your interested. However, there are projects that I brush/roller as well because I don’t want to do the cleanup of a sprayer or overspray may be an issue.

      You don’t have to worry as much about the durability based on sheen. Polyacrylic is essentially coating your paint in plastic. Regardless of sheen, it will still be scrubbable and durable. It’s not any less durable, although matte sheen has more tiny pits or grooves, which gives it the matte look. It’s the same reason that high-gloss sheen feel slick; there are no pits. With matte, things like grease might be a little more water to get residue out of the pits, but it’s not necessary to scrub any harder. I hope that makes sense. While I would generally avoid a green scrubby pad, I painted our kitchen island (here is a photo) where we eat every meal (including my sweet son, who for the life of me, can’t eat over the plate!), and I’ve cleaned it with a soft rag and no issues whatsoever. Also, poly (unlike wax) almost never stains. So that dried on tomato sauce from a month ago is no worry.

      I hope that helps and feel free to ask anything else you like!

      Reply

  13. Thank you so much for your help on this issue and all the experiments you’ve tried! Very few people have advice on this particular subject of topcoats over painted things (that isn’t wax). We just painted some doors in our church (high traffic) a flat exterior alkaline paint but definitely need some added protection (also it’s an almost black color, and as you mentioned, shows fingerprints and stuff like that quite easily). We will be ordering the General Finish in Semi-gloss from Amazon as it looks like an amazing product and the Benjamin Moore paint (also you mentioned) is not available in our area. I hope to give you good news in a week on how we did! I look forward to more advice and tips from you as I am an experienced painter and passionate “re-doer” of furniture. I hope to start my own little side business one day when my kids are older!
    Side note, I have only used wax before (and definitely experienced the lack of durability though its gorgeous) and Maison Blanche Paint Company’s Matte Varnish. I love this company and all their vintage inspired paints (sold at an amazing little resale shop here in town). It works extremely well but takes three coats for real durability and is very very thin thus a bit difficult to apply. I’ve learned though and am looking for a cheaper product and hope General Finish is it (unbelievably it IS cheaper than what I’m currently using lol)!
    Thanks again!

    Reply

    • Yes, do let me know how it goes! I am obsessed with black and dark colored doors lately, so I bet it is beautiful. I have actually never heard of Maison Blanche, but their website has some lovely colors and projects. My goodness, it is expensive though! I am actually publishing a post soon on my favorite paints for furniture, but if you are looking for some alternatives, I suggest checking out Fusion Mineral paint or Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint. Every paint has their own style and these two match what I like depending on what look I am going for. I also have several other lines that I like for specific projects.

      Reply

  14. Can you help me? This is my first chalk paint/wax job. I used Annie Sloan paint and dark wax on a small kitchen table. It won’t get a lot of high traffic since my children are all grown. However, I was wondering if I could put some kind of clear topcoat over the wax so that I don’t have to keep waxing it.

    Reply

    • Hi Meredith! I wish I had better news but, unfortunately, wax is really designed to be a repellent so that nothing will bond to it, even if it’s cured wax. You could try putting a sealer, but I am not sure how well that would work. I generally recommend putting a sealer or poly underneath a wax, but not over top. With that said, are already experiencing problems that require re-waxing or are you worried about the future? I ask because the only reason that a piece would need re-waxing would be from vigorous scrubbing or high traffic pieces that will physically wear off the wax. I actually have a few pieces (a desk and a dresser) that are waxed over matte paint. Both are used but not in daily use, and I haven’t had to re-wax them in over 5 years.

      Reply

  15. Hi! I was wondering, how long after painting the furniture do you add the poly? Do you have to wait for the furniture to cure first?

    Reply

    • Hi Erica! Great question. No, you don’t need to wait for it to cure. I normally wait a few days to allow to paint to dry, if it’s high humidity outside. But I have also added the poly coat the next day with certain fast dry paints like chalk paint or Fusion mineral.

      Reply

    • The table is Fusion Mineral Champlain, my favorite line of matte paint which you can find here: http://bit.ly/2NbsqoA and the white dresser is actually just a pure white of a brand from Lowes that I don’t particularly like. The coverage was terrible and it took several coats. It’s tinted but I just asked for bright white. If I were to do that dresser again in the same color, I would either use Fusion Mineral’s Casement or Benjamin Moore’s Alkyd paint for furniture.

      Reply

  17. Hi, I’ve read in a few different places that water-based polyurethane shouldn’t be used over matte latex paint I’m curious what your experience is with this? Thanks!

    Reply

    • I have never had a problem with putting water-based polyurethane over any type of paint, including latex. Water-Based Polyurethane is essentially a plastic coating. Also, lower sheen paints are easier to bond things on top of. However, matte sheen does tend to stain easier so maybe they are referring to a problem with yellowing? My main concern here would not be with the top coat, but with the quality of paint used and application. For example, I have often dealt with friends and clients who made the mistake of painting their cabinets/furniture with latex wall paint. They are dismayed when the paint is peeling or scratching and ask if adding a top coat will fix the issue. While adding a topcoat would improve the durability, it won’t truly “fix” the problem, which is bad paint. I hope that helps, but if you have a specific project or issue in mind, feel free to comment or email me at Rachel {@} cravingsomecreativity.com and I can give more targeted advice if you need it.

      Reply

  18. Hi! I am spray painting a hutch black and am using rustoleum 2X in semi gloss. I prepped the piece, spray painted it, sanded it with a fine sandpaper and repainted it. The problem I am seeing is that when I wipe it, for test purposes, with a paper towel, it tends to catch the little fluff from the paper towel and its hard to remove those little pieces I want the piece to be easily wipeable. Would you recommend the poly topcoat? Thank you for the great article!

    Reply

    • Hi! I have a few pieces painted with Rust-Oleum products and I am surprised that the paper towels are catching on the paint. I usually wipe my outdoor furniture and my mini-fridge with a damp lint-free towel or sponge. Part of me wonders if your paint is fully cured or if dust got into the paint before drying, but I am not sure. I have a contact at Rust-Oleum and I will ask for their guidance so that I can get the best answer.

      Reply

  19. Hi…I used a flat aqua color on my entertainment ctr. and thinking it could use a little sheen but just in certain areas. What do you suggest I use? Thank you.

    Reply

    • The biggest thing to keep in mind is that any change in sheen will deepen the color, if you like that look. If you aren’t worried about durability, you could try a wax sealer like Any Howard’s Clear Wax. That would give you just a bit of sheen and control over how it is used. It will also highlight just those areas you apply it, and blend in well without changing the color. However, if you haven’t worked with wax before, I don’t generally recommend it for a few reasons. Depending on the style of the piece you are going for, it can give it an antique look with a little uneven coverage. It is also hard to clean for things like kitchen cabinets. That isn’t to discourage, because I do use wax for specific projects. I would recommend watching a few videos to see if that’s the look you want to go with. If wax isn’t right, I would probably go with a wipe-on poly unless you are doing large, flat areas like the top of the entertainment center. Wipe-on polys can sometimes streak. I hope that helps!

      Reply

  20. Hey! I just used the fusion paint on two pieces for our nursery. I’m trying to figure out what to use to protect them that will be quick and easy (as much as possible) as my husband will have to do this part. I saw that you don’t normally use something on top of the fusion paint. Why is that? I’m wondering if I still should since these pieces in our nursery will see a lot of traffic. Thanks!

    Reply

    • Great question! You are right, I have several pieces in Fusion that do not have any kind of top coat on them. I don’t worry as much about a topcoat with Fusion because I can clean them without taking any paint off and because it’s been very durable even against my 8 year old son. All of those, however, are low traffic pieces (i.e. an entertainment center, dresser, etc.) However, I have did use a top coat poly with Fusion on a kitchen dining table and a kid’s bathroom vanity. That is probably the highest traffics piece you can imagine with food stains, plate scrapes, dried-on toothpaste, etc. You can see it here. For a nursery, I would be careful of two things. The first is anything the child may put their mouths on would probably determine what topcoat I used. For most pieces, like the changing table and dresser I would probably leave them as is and they should be fine. Any of the topcoats that I list would work great though. It mostly depends on what you have readily available to you and what sheen you want.

      Reply

      • Thank you SO much for this information! So helpful. I used the paint on a dresser and changing table. So I think I’ll actually not use anything top coat wise on them! I’d rather not use a “toxic” topcoat on nursery furniture anyway, but thought I had to use one in order for it to function well I guess? Seriously appreciate this post and your comment back! Thanks!

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