Looking for the best options to protect your painted furniture? Read on to learn more about using poly (polycrylic/polyacrylic and water-based polyurethane) to protect your furniture pieces from stains and scratches.
Most people who look up painting furniture will see tutorial after tutorial about the virtues of furniture paint and chalk paint such as Annie Sloan, Country Chic, or CeCe Caldwell. And there are many positives including hiding small flaws and less prepwork than other types of paint. In fact, many of you have probably transformed a few pieces in your home with paint. It’s a really fun and slightly addicting hobby, to be sure!
One of the most common worries that I see from clients, friends, and readers is about the durability of any painted project. How do I protect my painted furniture? Can I scrub it? Will it show fingerprints or smudges?
These are all very valid questions and today I am answering these burning questions. You can see several of our other furniture transformations here.
Wax vs Poly for Durability
There are essentially two kinds of protecting top coats for furniture projects: wax and poly. This is actually important since they act in very different ways, and for the most part we will treat Water-based Polyurethane and Polyacrylic/polycrylic as the same since they both can be used to protect painted surfaces. However, unless the directions specify, oil-based polyurethane is used for stained surfaces. I could write whole articles dedicated to the differences between wax and water based polyurethane, but for the purposes of this article, water-based polyurethane provides much more durability and protection over time than wax does.
That isn’t to say that you should always use a polyurethane however. Wax provides an aesthetic that Poly cannot match and that is an important distinction.
To be fair, I am not a huge fan of wax unless it is dark wax for the purpose of antiquing a piece. In fact, wax can even be used over water based poly! I would highly recommend a flat or low sheen poly in this case, and the wax must be the last coat. I usually recommend this way of doing dark wax on low traffic pieces (not table tops) or in recesses like ornate table legs because it is easier to manage and wipes off easier if you get too much.
When You Should Add Extra Protection to Painted Furniture
My house is rowdy with boys, large dogs, and general mayhem around the clock. Feet on furniture and loud bangs are a pretty normal occurrence. Although no finish is going to be bullet proof, poly is going to provide the best protection option. I do not always use a top coat and some paints are perfectly fine without it. For example, my entertainment center does not have a top coat but the paint itself is an acrylic emulsion paint. For high traffic pieces (any table top, kitchen cabinets, kids furniture), I definitely recommend a top coat to provide the best protection to your painted furniture.
For almost all dark matte paints, I like to use a poly or wax as well. Dark colors tend to show smudges, fingerprints, and dust more easily. I want to be able to wipe those surfaces so I love that poly provides that extra protection that makes surfaces scrubbable. An example is my craft room cabinets- I spilled a quart of paint down the front of my white painted cabinets and carpet. They were protected with a thick poly so after wiping them off, there isn’t a stain or change at all and they were easy to wipe off.
One other place that I highly recommend using a top coat is in humid areas such as bathrooms or kitchens. A satin or higher sheen in a kitchen/bath is also a good idea to keep the paint looking good.
Using Polyacrylic and Sheen Changes
In the above picture, I painted two side tables for a friend using Country Chic Chalk Paint in Midnight Blue. Dark colors tend to show dust and fingerprints more easily. Since I knew these pieces would be going to a home of rowdy boys (like my own), I asked the client if she would like me to add some additional protection in the form of a polyacrylic.
I did warn her of one thing…a top coat will change the sheen on chalk paint. In the above picture, the right side table has no top coat on it, while the left side is sprayed in two coats of Benjamin Moore Polyacrylic in Satin. For many of my projects, I use and recommend this sprayer and this spray shelter to keep over-spray to a minimum.
How much of a change depends on which brand you use, but what I love about a top coat is also that it tends to deepen and make the colors slightly richer.
So what brands of Poly have I used and recommend?
This is a matte poly that you wipe on with a clean, folded cheesecloth. Although I like the final sheen of it being pretty true to matte, I have found it a bit difficult to work with. For most Fusion Mineral paint projects, I often don’t use a top coat like on our entertainment center makeover.
Pros:
- Cures much quicker than other brands I have worked with, a few days in normal humidity (less than 60%).
- Beautiful matte sheen.
- It is scratch resistant, and does not yellow or alter the paint colors.
- Wipe On Application
Cons:
- Dries very quickly and has a very short working time.
- Make sure you turn it upside down for 30 minutes before applying and then gently shake to evenly disburse the ingredients.
- I have had some trouble in the past with streaks, but not always.
Here is a dresser project that I did with Fusion Mineral’s Tough Coat. It does have a nice matte sheen.
I do like this General Finishes Flat Out Flat, especially with a paint sprayer. For my projects, it is the best and most flat sheen option that I have used. It isn’t quite as durable as the High Performance Polyurethane (which does have a flat option) or the ultra-durable Enduro Clear Poly. Links include purchasing information.
Pros:
- Beautiful product that can be brushed or sprayed.
- The sheen tends to be more matte than other polys that I have tried.
- They also have a High Performance Polyurethane that is very good quality if you are looking for a higher sheen and increased durability.
Cons:
- Most Expensive Brand.
This desk was originally finished in chalky finish paint and I sprayed General Finishes Flat Poly Acrylic as a top coat.
Minwax Poly (both wipe-on and regular polycrylic can be purchased here)
I will be perfectly honest. I know you guys are probably wondering about the best budget option for painting your piece. And here it is: Minwax Poly. However, I will give a caution to you. Especially with white or pale colors, I have read about and personally seen this product turn yellow with certain brands of paint, usually cheaper brands of paint. There is some sort of chemical reaction that happens that causes this. By far, most users of this product have not seen a problem, so I would do a test on a scrap piece of wood and let it sit for a few days before finishing your piece.
Pros:
- Wipe On polyacrylic version in gloss and satin.
- A polycrylic product in satin, semi-gloss, and flat.
- Most Inexpensive Option
Cons:
- I have personally seen this product turn yellow and streaky over white paint.
My personal favorite for a satin/eggshell sheen (called low lustre). I put this finish on my son’s dresser and around his desk and it has held up beautifully with almost no scratches. He is very hard on furniture.
Pros:
- Best durability I have every seen.
- I have used this on several projects with many different paints (including latex because…long story) and it has NEVER yellowed.
- Several sheens including flat, low lustre, and high gloss. I have not tried the flat but I want to.
Cons:
- It can be brushed, but it is much better thinned by 10% and used with a paint sprayer.
- Generally, has a very long cure time.
- Slightly harder to find (my Benjamin Moore Store only carries gallon size) and expensive.
- Can only be purchased at a Benjamin Moore Store.
This table was top coated with with Benjamin Moore Stays Clear. I put several coats on this since it is a dining room table, but you can see the sheen on the base. Heavier or more coats will have a longer cure time. For example, with cabinets I know they are cured when I can shut the door for 24 hours without sticking.
This dresser is also in low lustre sheen but I got a better sprayer made for furniture and I did three thinner coats.
Final Thoughts on How to Protect Painted Furniture
Several products will do the job flawlessly if you follow the instructions. There are a few best practices such as making sure you completely stir the poly before use and occasionally during application to keep the ingredients in suspension. As with any paint project, do not use in high (>80%) or very low humidity. I also try to avoid direct sunlight and allow the piece to fully cure before setting items on it such as heavy lamps or other painted materials.
Have fun with your project! Feel free to ask any questions or give your experience with these products in the comments below.
Want to Learn more about Painting Furniture? Check out these Guides for beginners:
- The best methods for Painting Kitchen Cabinets
- The Best Paints for Cabinets and Furniture
- Removing Wood Grain for Painted Furniture
- Cerusing Technique on a Dining Room Table
- The best Paint for High Traffic Furniture and No top coat
- How to Paint a Bathroom Vanity
- 9 Amazing Furniture Projects for your Inspiration
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Melinda Field says
Hi Rachel
I lived Reading about your makeovers! I’m so inspired!
I have A question about what kind of top coat protective you would recommend on a coffee table that was white washed with a chalk like paint?
I purchased This table that someone else refinished and want to make sure to add a protective topcoat so we don’t get wet rings or other damages. I want To the look to stay as consistent as possible. Flat with no sheen. I’m almost looking for like a dry flat top coat. What do you think is a good product for that?
Rachel says
Any of the above top coats will work with chalk paint, but I would generally go with something like General finishes or Minwax since you probably like the very flat sheen that chalk paint has. General finishes makes a Flat out Flat poly that is durable and very flat. Minwax also makes a spray that isn’t too bad, but I would recommend several thin coats to make sure you get full coverage.
Karen Butler says
Great information! I have a kitchen cart from the 1950s that I have refurbished and I’m wondering what kind of pol y top coat I should use on it. The surface is currently painted with a semi-gloss enamel but I feel like it should be protected because of the use in the kitchen.
Rachel says
I am going to assume that the cart isn’t an actual food surface, because that can get really tricky with which products to use. Any of the products above will protect the surface from staining and making them easier to wipe clean without damaging the paint, so it would be completely up to you based on your desired sheen, durability, and how you will use the cart.
Heather says
Hello! So I am in the process of painting my cabinets using Annie Sloan Chalk Paint in Old White. This is my first time and I’ve already had a few hiccups. 🙁 I like the foam roller better than the brush since it doesn’t show brush strokes, the wax I hate! On the few doors and sides of cabinets I did already they look cheap and blotchy and I’m so upset. I’ve been spending a lot of time and effort and for the end result to look like that I was bummed. But I am determined to have nice refreshed cabinets when I’m done. I repainted the waxed cabinets and now want to be sure I choose the right poly. I’ve been reading a lot about Minwax Polycrylic Satin for Cabinets and I’m thinking of using that but want to be sure. I don’t have a sprayer so what would you recommend using to minimize brush strokes? Do you think this will turn them yellow? And about how many coats? I don’t want them to be shiny just a nice protective layer.
Rachel says
If you really don’t want brush strokes, I would go with the lowest sheen in a poly. A satin is going to be more likely to show brush strokes, but can be less with the right technique. I have used Minwax a few times, for budget reasons, although I have some other more expensive products that I generally prefer to work with. You can use a microfiber roller to minimize brush strokes although you would need to still brush in the corners. Many people I know have used Minwax poly over Annie Sloan without a problem of yellowing, although I have not personally. I normally spray 2-3 coats, but it’s a little different with a roller. Some only use 1 coat, some use 2-3 coats with sanding before the final coat for smoothness. Good luck with your project!
Kelly says
I’m over-coating Behr chalk pain (tinted navy) with minwax water based poly. The saleslady said to wait 30 days for the paint to cure (although she admitted to waiting only 7 on her own project) before top-coating but I can’t find any guidance from Behr. Any advice? We stripped and sanded a desk, poly’d it all distressed, and just painted the drawers 2 coats chalk paint.
Rachel says
I have never waited the full cure time on paint. I do usually wait at least 3-7 days to outgas if necessary. I haven’t used Behr’s chalk paint particularly, but chalk paint naturally dries/cures faster than other paints. Looking at Behr’s website, you are right – there isn’t much guidance. However, on their decorative chalk wax, they say to wait 2 hours before applying the wax, so I think you will be fine with waiting a few days or only a week to apply poly.
Becky says
Rachel, the work you have done and posted is beautiful! I’m new to this furniture restoration process. I tested a piece of wood by painting it and applying a satin water based polyurethane. It came out a little shinier than I’d like so I need to keep experimenting. However, seeing the final sheen made me wonder, how is putting a top coat different than painting with a paint that has a sheen to it? How is applying a top coat different than painting the furniture with satin or semigloss paint? Is one more durable than the other?
Rachel says
Hi Becky! Great questions! There are some paints you can use that don’t have a strong necessity for a topcoat, unless you are using them on high traffic furniture (dining room table top, kitchen cabinets, etc). In this post, I talk about my favorite paints for furniture. I use a few different ones for different situations. A polycrylic topcoat is more durable than paint alone, even paint with a sheen. I often describe it as similar to coating a piece of furniture in a thin layer of hard plastic. Furthermore, a topcoat is scrubbable generally without damaging the paint itself. Have you ever used a magic eraser to scrub off walls and then noticed a change in the color left behind? A good quality poly won’t do that. While you could change the sheen of a high-gloss poly, it would still be less noticeable than scrubbing a high gloss paint. They also make matte polycrylic, if you don’t like the sheen. A matte paint will always be the most likely to scuff or mar. Lastly, a polycrylic is not porous at all. It’s not very common, but some paints like chalk paints can soak up oils or stains and change color over time. I hope that answers your questions and welcome to a rewarding new adventure!
Amy Kostandaras says
Your article is very informative I have used
Polyacrylic on chalk paint and now I have painted a rocking chair in Fusion paint and
Want a higher sheen that the tough coat from fusion.
Can I use Polyacrylic as my top coat over the fusion paint. I have the wipe on that does not yellow. The chair is in a light blueish green.
What do you recommend
Rachel says
Thank you so much! You can definitely use any topcoat you like over the Fusion paint. I’ve sprayed satin polyacrylics over Fusion and never had any issue. For many applications, Fusion doesn’t totally need a topcoat, but for a regularly used chair, I would probably top coat it too.
kate says
Thank you for this article! I’m thrilled with the way my desk came out, except for the top. I blue-taped the edges then poly’d the top for extra protection. When I removed the tape, the poly peeled off with it!! I sanded it all down and redid it without tape, but I’m worried that the poly isn’t really bonding to the paint. Maybe I should do it again, and do the poly while the paint is still tacky? Any other ideas/suggestions?
Thank you!!!!
Kate
Rachel says
Oh no, I am sorry you had to do all that work over again! What probably happened was that the poly was too dry. If you think about it, paint, poly, and other coatings dry from the outside-in. Often what we feel as “dry” isn’t really dry underneath the top layer exposed to air. So the tape pulled the poly off because the hardened outside grabbed onto the tape. I generally pull tape off as soon as I am done- i.e. when the poly or paint is still wet. That helps prevents chipping or flaking. It takes a long time for poly to fully cure, anywhere from a few days to 2 months depending on product, thickness applied, and the humidity where you live. While it is possible that a product failure is happening (I am not sure what brand of paint was used), it is pretty unlikely that the poly isn’t sticking to the paint. It just needs to harden. I hope that makes you feel better and glad to hear that your project turned out great!