Learn the tips and tricks for how to paint garage floors including the pros and cons of various kits. This DIY project for concrete floor coating has been durable, easy to clean, and non-slip when wet!
We are sprinting down the finish line in the garage makeover! The last time I updated you, we had a major project in mudding the walls and organizing the garage. Now that the walls are done, I am very excited to be moving on to more…paint?! Well, sort of, but this one is worthy of excitement. We are painting the garage floors!
You see, 3 years of DIY had left our garage floors looking a little worse for wear…
Several months ago, hubby had asked me to find a garage floor coating product to turn our nightmare floor into a respectable shop to work in. This space is the center of our DIY world. It’s a garage filled with hopes, creativity, and a whole ‘lotta sawdust.
We needed a product that was beautiful but also function and hit all of our criteria:
- Non-slip coating
- Not reflective or glossy
- Not slippery when wet (epoxy floor coatings are awful if they get wet)
- No 2-step insane epoxy (this is much easier!)
- Durability – We can drive on it and it resists against dirt, grease & household stains
- Wide range of colors that are neutral to match the house
If you are planning on recoating the garage floor, there are a few tips to make your project the best it can be. Prepping may look like a lot of work, but, truthfully, we did all of the prep work (except moving stuff) in a single day.
Recommended Supplies and Materials
- Strong Degreaser or cleaner
- Long handled scrub brush
- Muriatic acid
- Bucket for mixing acid
- Safety gear (large rubber gloves, closed toe shoes, safety glasses)
- Baking Soda (1 cup per gallon of water)
- Hose with water connection
- Adhesive roller or rented textured paint sprayer
- Paint supplies (paint pole, paint trays, large stir sticks)
- Garage Floor Coating (see below for brands)
BONUS: Floor coatings such as this reduce temperature fluctuation. Concrete floors and patios are noticeably warmer in the winter and above ground concrete won’t heat up in the sun as much in the summertime.
What Floor Coating Should I use?
After having used and tested several products over the years, Epoxy based coatings are going to be the most durable options. I haven’t tried every product on the market (some are Thousands of dollars!) but here are some recommendations for starting your own research:
- Homeowner/Durable but Budget Friendly – Rustoleum EpoxyShield or Rocksolid
- Professional Grade/Maximum Durability and Chemical Resistance – Armor Garage or ArmorPoxy Armorclad
- Weather resistant/non-slip/non-gloss – Behr Granite Grip
We use our garage as a woodworking shop, so the Behr Granite Grip was the best choice for us. If I were running, say, a car restoration shop, I’d go for the professional grades. You can also add texturizer to the epoxies to make them less slippery, which was a HUGE factor for us.
For more information and to compare brands, I recommend checking out the RustOleum Comparison Chart, Garage Armor’s Explanation of their systems, Armorclad’s Product Explanation, and Behr Granite Grip’s Reviews.
How to Prep the Garage Floor for Painting
1. Moisture Test
If your concrete floor collects moisture, it can get under the coating and you will not have a proper bond. Tear off a few feet of clear plastic wrap and lay it on the floor. Use Duct Tape or another well sealing tape around all of the edges. I would recommend leaving for a day or two and check periodically if any moisture, color change, or condensation collects on the floor or the underside of the plastic wrap.
If it fails, I would definitely consult a professional to find the source and what you can do about it.
2. Move Everything Out
Finding a place to store everything from the garage might just be the biggest hurdle. This whole process will take a few days so I recommend doing it all at once. Our bench is built into the wall, so we left that.
3. Clean and Degrease the Garage Floor
Make sure you scrub off any oil, dirt, or chipping paint from the floor. This is crucial for a proper bond. Use a good degreaser and a long-handled scrub brush to remove any contaminants.
4. Acid Etching
Acid etching will prep concrete to accept and bond with a coating. If your concrete has been previously sealed, you may need to abrade the surface with a grinder rather than acid etch.
While etching isn’t hard, safety is the priority here. Muriatic Acid, also known as hydrochloric acid, is a strong acid. Wear safety goggles, rubber gloves, and old shoes you don’t care about. Hubby is sensitive to fumes so he wore a respirator mask. That would be overkill for most.
Read and follow all manufacturer’s instructions for the muriatic acid and use only with adequate ventilation. You may have to do a few applications depending on the density and smoothness of your concrete.
Pro Tip: Always pour acid into water, NOT water into acid. Does anyone else remember those “What Not to Do in the Chemistry Lab” videos from school? The boiling acid example makes this rule pretty clear.
5. Neutralize and Rinse
Mix 1 cup of baking soda to 1 gallon of water and sprinkle over the floor. Allow to sit 10 minutes and then rinse with a garden hose. When mostly dry, wipe your hand across the floor to make sure there is no powdery white residue left behind. If there is, thoroughly rinse again. Allow the floor to dry completely (2 days).
Pro Tip: The concrete should be approximately the roughness of 150 grit sandpaper. If not, repeat the etching process.
How To Apply Floor Paint
Now that everything is prepped, your garage floor is ready for coating. These instructions are particular to the Granite Grip that we used. Epoxies are slightly more complicated.
Coverage: It covers 50 sq. ft. per gallon. For our two-car garage, we used 8 gallons of Ornamental Gem, but there are many natural-looking color options.
1. Cover small cracks
Large cracks can be filled in with concrete patch. For small cracks like below, the aggregate will fill in with a brush. Paint one coat and let dry before your roller coat.
2. Lay floor Coating
Method 1 – Rent a texture sprayer from any Home Depot/hardware store that has a tool rental department. I highly recommend this option. Application is easier, faster, and you will be sure there are no roller marks.
Method 2 – Use an adhesive roller (not a regular paint nap roller) to apply the paint. Working in a 4×4 area, make sure to minimize roller marks by working in a random pattern.
Pro Tip: Both the acid etching and the Paint must be applied when air/surface temperatures are above 50 degrees F.
The floor is ready for light traffic in 24 hours but allow coating to dry for 72 hours before subjecting to automotive tires. Longer dry time required in cooler temperatures and in higher humidity. Don’t rinse the floor for 30 days and you have yourself a great floor!
Expert Tips
- Make sure to regularly stir the aggregate/flakes suspended in the paint solution.
- Work in 4 foot by 4 foot sections so that you aren’t going over semi-dry paint.
- Raw concrete is porous so it may suck up the paint quite quickly. Second and third coats are easier to smooth out.
- Between coats, wait the manufacture’s recommended time. You will walk on it to recoat, but you will cover over any imperfections.
- Apply at least two coats to get full, even coverage. We applied 3, but our coats were thin, so it kept within the 50 sq ft per gallon recommendation from Behr.
- Many brands recommend spike shoes in order to walk on the fresh paint for subsequent coats. We didn’t use any and it was perfectly fine.
Looking for more DIY home projects? Check out these ideas!
- Garage Tool Storage Ideas for Pro Organizing
- Baseboard Repair and Caulking
- Add Trim to Cabinets for an Instant Upgrade
- Building A Kitchen Island
- All Of Our DIY Room Reveals!
- How To Paint Garage Doors
Here it is, completed and pretty! I definitely made the right choice for our floors and hubby is happy which is the most important thing. Now that everything is back where it belongs, it’s back to work for us on our next DIY project. With spring in the air, it is time to start some of those long overdue outdoor projects.
But the real question is, are you ready to create your very own garage retreat?!
*Update: It has been 4 years since we coated the garage floor, and I can say that I am very, very happy with it. We have NOT been gentle at all and spills are easier to clean up and I am so impressed…when the floor isn’t covered in sawdust, haha. I would say that it needs a few touch-ups but has lasted amazingly well.
FAQs
For areas that may get wet, a non-slip paint is highly recommended. Use either an epoxy based coating plus an aggregate like Rustoleum Rocksolid plus Shark Grip textured additive. Another durable option for weathered concrete is Behr Granite Grip which is ideal for garage floors, patios, and porches.
If your garage floor is well weathered, it may not need to be etched. To ensure maximum durability and chip resistance, concrete should be etched to where it feels rough, like 150 grit sandpaper.
As long as the existing floor coating is still well bonded to the floor and not peeling up, you can use a primer over it to repaint. Epoxy may need to be sanded or chemically removed.
The Behr Granite Grip we used does not require a topcoat. Most epoxy based highly recommend a topcoat, which may or may not be included in the kit.
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How To Paint A Garage Floor
Tools
- Hose with water connection
- Bucket for mixing acid
Supplies
- Safety gear large rubber gloves, closed toe shoes, safety glasses
- Baking Soda 1 cup per gallon of water
- Strong Degreaser or cleaner
- Muriatic acid
- Adhesive roller or rented textured paint sprayer
- Paint supplies paint pole, paint trays, large stir sticks
- Garage Floor Coating see below for brands
Instructions
- Moisture Test. Tear off a few feet of clear plastic wrap and lay it on the floor. Use Duck Tape or another well sealing tape around all of the edges. I would recommend leaving for a day or two and check periodically if any moisture, color change, or condensation collects on the floor or the underside of the plastic wrap.
- Clear the Area. Remove everything off the floor.
- Clean the Floor. Make sure you scrub off any oil, dirt, or chipping paint from the floor. Use a good degreaser and a long handled scrub brush to remove any contaminants.
- Acid Etching. Wear safety goggles, rubber gloves, and old shoes. Wet the concrete first before pour the diluted acid on the floor. It should begin bubbling and fizzing immediately. If not then you will want to increase the strength.
- Lightly scrub the acid solution. Use a push broom or long handled scrub brush. This helps to create a uniform etch of the concrete. Let the solution sit for 10 – 15 minutes while it continues to fizz and bubble. Do not let the floor dry out.
- Neutralize and Rinse. Mix 1 cup of baking soda to 1 gallon of water and sprinkle over the floor. Allow to sit 10 minutes and then rinse with a garden hose. When mostly dry, wipe your hand across the floor to make sure there is no powdery white residue left behind. If there is, thoroughly rinse again. The concrete should be approximately the roughness of 150 grit sandpaper. If not, repeat the etching process.
- Allow the floor to dry completely (2 days). The concrete should be approximately the roughness of 150 grit sandpaper. If not, repeat the etching process.
- Fill Cracks. Large cracks can be filled in with concrete patch. For small cracks, the aggregate will fill in with a brush. Paint one coat and let dry before your roller coat.
- Apply Floor Coating. Rent a textured paint sprayer or use an adhesive roller (not a regular paint nap roller) to apply the paint. Working in a 4×4 area, make sure to minimize roller marks by working in a random pattern.
- Allow to Dry. The floor is ready for light traffic in 24 hours but allow coating to dry for 72 hours before subjecting to automotive tires. Longer dry time required in cooler temperatures and in higher humidity. Don’t rinse the floor for 30 days and you have yourself a great floor!
JENNIFER STEPHENS says
Firstly, thank you for the details on how to do this. I feel I read the comments but I may have missed this response. I am wondering what advice you have if the garage floor is already (poorly) painted. Can I simply paint over it if all other factors are properly in place?
Rachel says
For a surface like you are talking about, you should make sure to remove any loose or chipped paint. Presence of moisture and/or sealers will prevent the coating from adhering properly and may cause product failure. To test paint bonding, you can follow these steps:
1. With a razor blade, cut an X through the coating and down to the concrete.
2. Apply a 4” piece of duct tape over the X and press firmly.
3. Completely remove the tape with one quick pull.
4. If less than 25% of the taped area is removed, the existing coating is adhering well and you may apply the over the existing paint.Thoroughly clean the surface to remove any dirt or contaminants. Prior to applying the Granite Grip, the previous coating will either need to be scuff sanded with coarse sandpaper.
5. If more than 25% of the taped area is removed with the tape, the original coating is not adhering well, and the floor should not be coated unless all previous paint is removed using a concrete floor sander or suitable paint stripper.
Hope that helps and good luck with your project!
Charles says
Excellent article – it’s now 18 months later. Can we see a picture and a brief update on how it’s holding up?
For any one else who has used this to re-do their garage and parked their cars on it, how is the coating holding up?
Thanks
Rachel says
We are in the middle of a few furniture building projects in the garage, so photos would be hard. However, I am super happy with the durability and longevity of the granite grip. We have driven, dragged, dropped stuff, and generally been pretty harsh on the floor. (It’s the DIY Life!) However, it hasn’t stained or discolored no matter low long between cleanings. No flaking, chipping, or scuff marks either. I need to touch up a few areas because my 9 year old son dragged a trash-bag full of white paint supplies across the floor and left paint marks, but nothing would have helped that. Honestly, I am really impressed and I would be honest if it wasn’t.
Angel says
Hi! I’m wondering how this would do on a pool house floor. We are looking for a waterproof coating but it must be nonslip as well. Any ideas? You
Rachel says
I have heard that this is perfect for a pool area application, so long as it is allowed to dry properly and passes the moisture test I described in prepping. For maximum success on outdoor applications, I would pick a time when rain isn’t likely to happen for at least several days, and use a sprayer rather than a roller if it’s a large area just because it’s faster to lay down. Many Home Depot stores have them available for rent. It is definitely non-slip, which I love, but it isn’t as rough as concrete applications you see at community pools.
Lora says
Hi
I live in Ohio and during the winter salt is transferred on to the garage floor from the tires. Will the salt damage this coating?
Thanks for the post.
Rachel says
Salt would be abrasive, but I don’t think chemically it would do any damage. We have thrown just about everything at this coating and it looks just as good today as it did when it was new, except where my son spilled some white paint. That we will have to touch up.
Extreme Epoxy Coatings says
Thank you for taking the time to provide such an informative and helpful post.
Kim Carter says
I applied the granite grip coating to My heated garage about 6 weeks ago and it cured very quickly due to having a heat pump. Do you know What should I use to clean the floor when necessary? I am going to be using it for a dog kennel area and will need to be able to clean the floor periodically. I have searched the Internet and cannot find a recommended cleaner. I normally use a non-toxic, bleach free kennel cleaner that kills bacteria and any animal viruses. Do you think a product like that would be safe? I don’t want to compromise the integrity of the coding so that the flooring will last many years. Any suggestion from anyone would be greatly appreciated. Thank you-Kim
Rachel says
I have honestly been cleaning ours with water and a decent scrub brush. We use simple green to clean up things like grease if necessary. A kennel cleaner probably has a neutralizing agent in it, so it should be fine.
Kim Matlock says
Hey, Kim, Kim here. How’s your kennel floor holding up ? I found this while searching for an easy to clean , no skid but not too rough flooring option.
Janet Horseman says
hi I’m wondering if you know if we can cover Granite grip with an epoxy or other clear finish to smooth the surface a little bit. I love the look and the depth and would really like to give it a Sheen or glossy look. I just want to make sure the product I use is the correct one.
Rachel says
That is a great question! I’m sure that it would be fine actually as long as you waited a few days to put the second coating on. I would check with either Behr directly (try their FB page or customer service line maybe?) for a specific product to use.
Larry says
Did you end up putting a clear finish? I was thinking the same. THanks
Jack says
You emphasize the importance of the moisture test but did I miss the follow-up? If there is moisture are there additional steps or is that the end of the project?
Rachel says
For this particular paint, I probably wouldn’t recommend it if the moisture test fails. That isn’t to say that there aren’t products out there that would work. I would probably check with Rustoleum or a local paint company like Sherwin Williams if they have something that would work.
Michelle says
Two questions:
1. If we didn’t have the concrete folks apply a smooth finish, could we skip the step of etching?
2. Would this also work for patios made of concrete? Is it scratchy to the touch or uncomfortable to sit on. Random but helpful if there are kids sitting on the ground of the patio.
I’m happy I found your post! I was just asking my husband the other day if it would be crazy to try to epoxy our new garage (we’re building in December) and he said yes. I feel like this is an awesome and affordable option!!!
Rachel says
Thank you so much for your questions! With any kind of “paint” or epoxy, proper bonding means increasing the surface area. It’s just like sanding before you paint furniture, if that makes sense. If your concrete floor feels about the equivalent of 150 grit sandpaper or rougher, then I think you would be fine without etching first, as long as you give it a good cleaning and remove any oil, stains, etc. Secondly, an outdoor concrete patio is perfect for this (see my last note). It has a non slip surface, so the closest I can compare it to is like a nonslip bathtub bottom. I walk on it in my bare feet all the time. I feel like it’s much more comfortable than bare concrete! It also doesn’t seem to be as prone to temperature fluctuations. Concrete can be so cold but I notice this coating isn’t as cold. Lastly, my experience is painting a garage floor and I looooooove it! I love that it isn’t shiny or glossy or dangerously slippery when wet like epoxy based coatings can be. But I do think that the considerations are different for something like a non-shaded outdoor patio. Ours has been great, but I have seen a few reviews say that it chipped off their outdoor concrete. That could be user error (i.e. they didn’t do a moisture test and condensation got under the paint), but I like to be thorough. I hope that answers your particular situation and good luck with your project!
Hal says
How does it hold up under car tires. The stuff I used previously gets stained from the tires.
Rachel says
I can’t personally vouch for tires, since we have only driven a motorcycle on it a few times and parked the bicycles. Ours has held up really well to grease, machine oil, and our son who somehow never makes it to the street with the kitchen trash. The smoker leaves tracks on it when we wheel it around, but those have rinsed off easily. The directions say that it’s made for driving on, so that is all I know. Either way, I would absolutely not drive on it until the floor was fully cured. I wish I could be more definitively helpful! You can probably message Behr through Facebook/twitter or ask a paint expert at Home Depot.
Lianne says
We just did our garage 15 days ago and we waited 10 days before parking our vehicles on it and it peeled right off under 2 tires so I definitely recommend using cardboard under tires if you have to park on it prior to waiting the 30 days, which we weren’t aware of until we saw a few reviews with similar issues. It also shows the black tire line were we drove in which might also be due to being before curing for 30 days. We actually did 3 thin coats as 2 coats didn’t seem to give it a nice even coverage and after reading reviews a few others did 4 coats and were very happy that they did.
Luf says
Nice Work! How many boxes did you use all together?
Rachel says
I used about 8 gallons of the floor coating. We purchased 2 5-gallon buckets so there is some left over.
Nicole Q-Schmitz says
I think we’ll be tackling our garage floors this year too… and they definitely need this stuff! Seems super simple 🙂
Leanna says
Our garage is in constant use. We have it very well organized but its still more of a workshop with the big power tools than a car garage. I want to reseal the floor like this and from the looks of your example it would be well worth the time and effort. Great makeover.
simple nature decor says
My garage floor is in great need of a waterproof paint job like this! The concrete is in bad shape. My husband says he will do it this summer and hopefully he will. Nice update.
Maria
Rachel says
Thank you! We love it. It was a really big improvement and it is holding up very well.
charlestoncrafted says
What a huge upgrade! I love the look.