Learn the tips and tricks to spray painting outdoor furniture that will last! This inexpensive yet professional looking makeover project updates a patio or yard space with ease in a day.
One of the best and cheapest ways to update a deck or patio is to refresh the outdoor furniture. Today, I am sharing with you how to makeover outdoor furniture with spray paint! Depending on the size and condition of your furniture, it may take only an afternoon or a weekend.
Giving outdoor furniture a makeover is a great way to improve your outdoor spaces for use for all seasons. Check out my other outdoor projects, such as how we built a new outdoor table, staining an old deck, and how to refresh your front porch.
It’s finally feeling like spring around here and that always puts my mind towards checking off some outdoor projects. A few months ago, I purchased this set at the Habitat for Humanity ReStore for a steal at $65.
In this picture, the paint doesn’t look too bad, but it’s actually chipped and flaking so it needed a good refresh.
Supplies Needed for Spray Painting Outdoor Metal Furniture
- Stiff Wire Brush
- TSP, trisodium phosphate for cleaning – you can also use a mild dish soap or metal cleaner
- Primer – *See below “How to Prime Metal Furniture” for choosing the best primer
- Protective Enamel Spray Paint – I used Semi-Gloss Black
- Rust-Oleum Comfort Grips – If you have a large project, this will keep your hands from becoming sore and it helps provide a more even spray coat
- Sander – Palm sander or mouse sander (optional) or sanding blocks
- Drop Cloth
- Something to Elevate the Furniture off the ground (a table, scrap wood, etc)
- scrub brush and cleaning rags
How To Prep Outdoor Furniture
Prepping is the most important part of painting. If you don’t start out with a good, clean surface, the paint won’t bond well or last for years to come.
Step 1 – Wire Brush. I recommend starting with a wire brush to knock off any rust build-up or chipping paint. The idea here is to scrape off any areas that are rusty or flaking. I recommend a wire brush before sanding, because sandpaper doesn’t get in crevices well. (This set is aluminum so there wasn’t any rust on it.)
Step 2 – Sand. After wire brushing, lightly sand any glossy old paint with 220 grit sandpaper on a palm sander or 120 grit sanding blocks. I really like the flexible sanding blocks for this type of project because it’s easier to get in the corners and crevices. You only need to rough up the glossy topcoat. There is no reason to sand to the bare metal or leave swirl marks. The sanding also helps smooth out any areas where the paint has chipped.
Step 3 – Clean. Lastly, to prepare the outdoor piece, you will want to give it a good cleaning with a mild soap (car soap is a good) to remove any grease, dirt, or debris. Thoroughly dry the piece, particularly if you have rust problems already. I actually sand before cleaning because why clean twice?! This will ensure a good bond for the paint and primer.
Step 4 – Setup for spray painting outdoor furniture. Generally speaking, you will want to elevate the chairs or furniture so you can get around the bottom and undersides. If you have a table, that’s great, or you can use bricks, cement stones or 4×4 pieces of wood. Lay a drop cloth over it and you are ready to paint!
One last thing to note about the weather – don’t spray paint in full sun and preferably on a non-windy day. Even on calm days, spray paint can drift several feet so make sure there isn’t anything around that you don’t want overspray on. A spray shelter is also great for removing overspray and keeping dust collection lower. I sprayed the morning after it rained so the pollen would be lower. Never spray paint indoors. In fact, for a large furniture piece, I wouldn’t even spray paint in the garage.
How To Prime Metal Furniture
Using the right product for your situation is essential. I use a few different primers, depending on the condition of the piece:
- For heavily rusted surfaces – Rusty Metal Primer Spray
- For lightly rusted surfaces or previously painted surfaces – Clean Metal Primer (also comes in quart size you can use with a brush)
- For bare metal – Clean Metal Primer
- Galvanized Steel or Tricky surfaces – Universal Bonding Primer (also comes in quart size for painting with a brush)
- For rusty surfaces that can’t be sanded – Rust Reformer. I haven’t actually used this one without sanding, however it gets rave reviews. Personally, I would be too nervous not to sand.)
- For surfaces exposed to high heat or in full sun – High Heat Primer Spray. I’ve used it for a grill we repainted, for example.
You may notice that all of these are Rustoleum because I have consistent success with many of their product lines. Many of these primers come in several colors.
If none of the above situations apply, you actually don’t need to use a full primer. Often times, I only prime the areas that need a touch up if the old paint is in good condition.
Expert Tips to Paint Outdoor Furniture
- There is no need to prime areas that still have their base coat intact, but any areas of bare metal will need to be primed.
- I highly recommend these Rust-Oleum Comfort Grips. I love them because my hands aren’t sore after painting large projects and they help keep the spray paint application more even.
- For priming and painting, use light coats to avoid drips and sweep past the edges.
- Don’t worry about getting full coverage in one coat, because that might lead to drips.
- Do let dry according to directions between coats.
- Spray paint in multiple angles to fully cover the piece (even the bottom).
- Wait at least 48 hours before putting any cushions or decorations on.
Update: It has been 3 years since I painted this furniture set, which we use all the time. While we have replaced the wood table and rug, the paint job looks great! Despite it being in full sun and all the elements, there is only a little bit of wear on the arm rests. While it could last even longer, I expect another 2-3 years out of it. Not bad for a project that was less than $200!
This is just the start of our outdoor projects this season, but what a good start it is! I feel like so many people get overwhelmed, but small projects and just checking those simple projects off like spray painting are so motivational.
Frequently Asked Questions
I like products specifically for outdoor furniture that provide durability like Rust-Oleum Semi-Gloss Protective Enamel. It takes about 1 can per chair to fully coat.
Primer is only required in areas where bare or compromised metal is exposed. Previously painted metal furniture does not require primer if the paint is in good condition and well bonded.
Use a wire brush to knock off most of the rust. You can also use a rust stripper like this to make the job easier. Sand with 120 grit sandpaper after using either method. Prime with appropriate rust preventative spray paint or clear coating.
Never spray paint indoors. Follow the directions on your product, but also allow the painted metal furniture to cure for at least 48 before adding cushions or normal usage.
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How To Spray Paint Outdoor Furniture
Tools
- Wire Brush
- Paint Brush
- Blocks to elevate items for painting
Supplies
- Soap for cleaning metal
- Lint free cleaning rags
- Sand paper 220 grit
- Sanding Blocks 120 grit
- 1 can per chair Primer See Notes for which product is right for you
- 1 can per chair Protective Enamel Spray Paint
- 1 Drop Cloth
Instructions
- Evaluate the piece. Is there any grime or grease that needs cleaning prior to starting? Is the old paint in good condition? Is there rust to be repaired?
- Knock off rust build-up and chipping paint with a wire brush. You can also use a rust stripper if heavy rust is present.
- Sand glossy paint or coating. You do not need to sand every bit of previous stain or paint off if it is in good condition. Use an orbital sander with 220 grit and sanding sponges for crevices. Vacuum and wipe all dust off.
- Clean using dish soap or a mild degreaser for getting any grime and dirt off. Allow the metal furniture to completely dry. Don't skip this step as any dust or grime will not allow the paint to bond properly.
- There is no need to prime areas that still have their base coat intact, but any areas of bare metal will need to be primed.
- Paint with at least 2-3 coats. For priming and painting, use light coats to avoid drips. Don't worry about full coverage in one coat.
Laura Schaffer says
Oh my gosh! I have this exact same patio set and have been wanting to paint it. This is great thanks! I am having the hardest time finding replacement cushions for these chairs. Where did you find yours?
Rachel says
I actually got mine at Target! I had to order them online since it was difficult to get 6 in one color from a store.
Col says
Hi how did you paint the table top with that effect and what color. Thanks so much
Rachel says
More information on the tabletop itself can be found here: Building an Outdoor Dining Table
Ani says
I have a faux stone outdoor tabletop that is cast cement that is weather worn. Wanted to repaint with something that will recreate the faux stone look. Suggestions?
Rachel says
Oh boy, that is a tough one! I am not quite sure of the color of the stone or how varied it is, but Id say the technique is probably the most important part. I can’t say that I have done it myself, but I would probably use a few different but similar colors in an outdoor concrete/stucco paint. Then sort of sponge them on and blend them to create the textured surface that stone has rather than just painting it all in one color. I am sure there are some good tutorials about painting faux stones. Another idea that you could look into is one of those countertop kits that you can paint counter tops with. I don’t know if one of those might match the stone you have. I hope that helps and good luck with your project!
MARLA says
We have a marble top table that has been sun damaged.
Do you recommend the same process for it? And what about it looking dull later? Should there be a clear top
Cost of some kind?
Thanks for the help.
Rachel says
Hi! Are you wanting to paint the marble directly? Most marble, like carerra, tends to be a very porous surface, so over time the polished layer on the top may have worn off. Professional re-polishing may be needed to get it to look like it did when you bought it. This depends on how worn and rough the surface is now. You could try an etching polish remover for countertops if the surface isn’t too damaged. As for painting the marble itself, I cannot say that I have done this specifically, but the stone itself would already be etched so you don’t need to prep it further. I would probably paint it with a high binding paint of some sort, either a high binding primer such as Kilz max or maybe a paint meant for smooth shiny surfaces like plastic. If your not wanting to paint the marble specifically, just the frame, then yes the same process would be used. Hope that helps and let me know if you have any other questions.
Elisia says
How many cans of spray paint did you end up using?
Rachel says
I used about 7 cans for all 6 chairs and the table.
Jasmine Paulos says
Wonderful article to read if you want to make your furniture look as new.This article will be a guide. Thanks so sharing such amazing article .I would love to try on my furniture.