Classic Subway Tile is a big trend that doesn’t seem to be going anywhere. It has a clean look to it that goes with many different decor styles, such as our modern classic mixed bathroom that we are renovating. For our bathroom, we chose a white subway tile that looks like brick for our shower walls. When installing a beveled subway tile, there are some important characteristics that make it a bit different to work with than other tiles.
We have been very hard at work renovating the hall bathroom and we have learned a lot along the way. The reveal won’t be for a few weeks but tiling was the biggest project and I am so happy that it is done. Although we have tiled our kitchen backsplash and another bathroom floor, using beveled tile presented new and different challenges for our shower that I wanted to share with anyone wanting to tackle a similar project.
Decide your Subway Tile Pattern
The nice thing about subway tile is that you can customize the pattern easily to include a stacked pattern, a brick offset pattern, or even a horizontal pattern. Here are some examples:
Image via Oregon Brick
Create A Subway Tile Layout with the Beveled Edges in Mind
When we were deciding our layout for the shower, I decided to create the beveled tiles edging with an endcap piece. One of the biggest problems was that ending with a full piece would result in an uneven looking edge. For a more finished look, layout your design so that the beveled edges are cutoff when butted next to an endcap piece. This is also true when working in corners or if you are ending into a wall.
Beveled Subway Tile Needs Mitre Cuts in Corners
In corners, mitre cuts are an absolute necessity when using beveled edge tiles or really any subways tile that has rounded edges. A mitre cut only means that the cut is done at a 45 degree angle so that both ends connect together to fit a 90 degree angle. The one thing you will find is that walls in your house may not be perfectly square, or 90 degrees, so you may end up with a tiny gap between the tile. Don’t worry, grout in the corners will cover that up without problem.
If you are looking for a tile saw, this one is a good Tile Saw on a budget (which does mitre cuts).
Tiling and Level
First things first, before you ever put a single tile on the wall, check for level in relation to the other elements in the room. Is the ceiling edge level? Countertops? Cabinets? etc, etc. Our ceiling bowed in towards the center dramatically, which is why we didn’t tile all the way to the ceiling. We could have built it up with drywall spackle, but decided it wasn’t worth it. When checking for level over long spaces, use at least a 3-4 foot level like this one, not a little level.
Using a Ledger Board
This tip actually builds on to the last tip. I honestly recommend this tip for most any large tiling surface like a shower or full wall. A ledger board is just any very straight board that you put up where your first tiling row would go. You let the first (or rather second from bottom row) rest on the board when tiling. Using a ledger board will ensure that everything is level and starts out perfect. After you have tiled up the wall, you can remove the ledger board and tile the final row.
I forgot to take a picture of ours, but we tacked it up in place of the first row of tile above the tub base.
Creating Awkward or Complex Cuts in Tile
Tile that requires multiple cuts are the hardest to get correct fit. To make this easier cut a piece of paper and fit into the tile space to create a template. After the tile is cut to the shape of the template, dry fit into place to check for fit.
Grouting Beveled Subway Tiles
With most tile, I recommend using a hard rubber float for grouting around the tiles. However, beveled edge tiles make it difficult for a rubber float to properly push into the grooves, resulting in a lot more wastage of grout mixture. A softer masonry float can be used that will result in less wastage. I personally still used a black rubber float to spread the grout onto the tiles and, then, using my dry fingers, removed the excess back to the bucket. Whichever float you choose, you will still need a tile sponge to even out the grout and create clean professional lines.
Subway tile is a beautiful option whether you choose beveled edge tile or another option. I admit that I am a very messy tile installer but the look of this tile is so worth the effort of thinking a bit ahead. If you have any questions, let me know in the comments below! Now that the tile is finally finished, we are moving on to the vanity and I have some great ideas coming your way.
Update: You Can See Our Completed Bathroom Renovation Here.
Looking for More DIY Home Improvement Projects? Check These Out:
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- How To Choose the Right Bathtub for Your Remodel
- How to Install Picture Frame Wainscoting
- The Easiest Way to Repair Baseboards and Trim
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diane hallman says
Hi, I am interested in tiling my shower using beveled subway tile for the walls. We are using honed basket weave mosaic for the shower floor. For the rest of the bath, the floor will be honed hex matte tile. Did you used gloss beveled tile or matte for the subway tiles in the shower walls? Don’t know if one can mix sheens or if it matters but for floors I think honed gives more traction.
Rachel says
Your tile sounds beautiful! You can definitely mix and match sheens to your preference. The subway tile I have used is what I would equate to a satin sheen, with a stone floor that isn’t shiny at all. I have mixed and matched many different tiles in other other projects and sheen wasn’t a direct factor, but I could see using sheen as a factor in certain applications.
Jim says
We are planning a bathroom shower project using beveled subway tile. The brand we selected does not have an accompanying beveled bullnose tile. Can we use a flat subway tile for the finished edge? Thank you
Rachel says
The problem with using a regular subway tile is that the edge is exposed, in other words the ceramic coating does not run over the edge. You can use a flat edging subway tile, which is similar to what we did in this project. One edge is coated or rounded off. Another option is to run a larger caulk line over the tile edge to mask it, but you would have to paint right up to the top of the tile as the edge won’t look as finished.
Anita Haley says
We are thinking of using beveled subway tile in the kitchen and not doing grout lines and using tile glue… what’s your opinion?
Thanks
Rachel says
I can’t recommend it in a kitchen. Grout protects the mortar and substrate from moisture and water/mold. Some mastics and grouts are water resistant, but they can also be sealed. My concern that not using grout would be particularly problematic at the kitchen sink where water could get behind the tiles and cause mold or other damaging problems. Also, tile generally doesn’t fit together that perfectly, so I don’t think it would be attractive without grout. However, there is another idea. Companies such as Aspect Tile make peel and stick tiles and I believe have some subway patterns. Those don’t require grout, I believe.
brandon says
Hi. So on this project you used a end cap piece instead of a shluter? Also is every end piece cut then to make them all the same height at the end cap.
Rachel says
I am not quite sure what you mean by shluter? To me, Schluter is a company that makes waterproofing and trims. If you mean the trim (usually a piece of metal with a flap that lays underneath the last column of tile), then no, I didn’t use trim for this project. You certainly could though if you wanted. I have used trim like that on a client’s kitchen backsplash to give it a finished edge. To anwswer your other question, the end caps come premade and the same size as in the photos. They are fairly common since subway tile is so popular now in the edging and trim section. The only cut I really made was to cut the top corner at a 45 angle, because I edged around the entire shower on the sides and top.
Joey Bardos says
Hi,
Gosh, I have been looking for an article like this for months to figure out how to do my bathroom.I have had my tiles for months and I have not even touched them because nobody can give any advice to me….not even the guy that is supposed to do the job….I even bought half tiles to solve the problem of the outer edges …thanks for the pics.
Joey.
Rachel says
Thank you! If you have any specific questions, feel free to let me know and I hope that I can help.
Kelly says
I just had 3D subway tile installed in my kitchen (backsplash). This was my first tile experience. One caveat is that the switch covers are not flush with the tile because of the curves. Any suggestions on how to fill the gap between the tile and the outlet cover?
Strauss says
You are so inspiring with your work! Thank you sharing, keep it up
Mike Heyduck says
Did you have any issues with the tile bevels where they meet the mixing valve and valve cover? I’m concerned with water getting behind the valve trim and ultimately in to the wall.
Rachel says
When installing the valve cover, we used plumber’s putty on the backside of the valve to seal the wall opening. You can find plumber’s putty here. You shape the putty in a ring on the backside of the cover around the edges, but the putty shouldn’t be visible from the front.
Matt says
Great looking project!
I’m about to tile our shower with the same beveled subway tile. When you did the mitre cuts for the corners did you try to leave space for grout or did you try to get them as close as possible?
Rachel says
We didn’t leave space so to speak. The corners filled in nicely with grout when we wiped with a sponge. The one problem we did have was the beveled areas (not the raised flat areas). If you wipe them with just a sponge, the grout made a diamond shape where the bevels met. After some trial and error, I found that pulling out excess with a gentle q-tip was the best way we could get the grout to look right, without the diamond shape. There may be other ways of doing it too. Good luck with your project!