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    Home » Home Remodeling » Tile

    Published: Aug 28, 2019 · Modified: Jun 1, 2021 by Rachel

    How To Tile a Herringbone Pattern

    This post may contain affiliate links. Read my disclosure.
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    Love a herringbone pattern tile, but worried it’s not easy to create? It’s no harder than other subway tile patterns with this step by step guide that shows how to measure, mark, cut and lay the tiles for a perfect job.

    I’ve been getting many questions about the bathroom remodel at my parent’s house, most specifically comments on how intricate and beautiful the herringbone pattern inset is on the shower. We have a post about all the many subway tile patterns you can do, but herringbone is one of the most popular. Quite a few mentioned that herringbone must be so difficult to lay, but that isn’t the case!

    White herringbone tile pattern inset in subway tile in a bathtub or shower.
    Contents show
    1 Herringbone Tile Supplies
    2 General tips for tiling
    3 How To Lay Herringbone Tile Pattern
    3.1 Step 1: Find the Center Point
    3.2 Step 2: Decide Starting Point
    3.3 Step 3: Add a ledger board
    3.4 Step 4: How to Lay the First Tile
    3.5 Step 5: Continue up the wall
    4 Herringbone Pattern FAQs
    5 How to Tile a Herringbone Pattern
    5.1 Tools
    5.2 Supplies
    5.3 Instructions
    5.4 Notes

    Herringbone Tile Supplies

    You will need mostly the same general tools and supplies for tiling herringbone vs other patterns. Here is a handy list of some of the items I use and recommend.

    • Tile cutting saw with a good blade – This budget-friendly one makes tile cutting simple and is perfect for homeowners.
    • Spacers – T-shaped ones and wedge spacers
    • A square trowel – There are two sizes. I use a ¼-inch size like this one for smaller tile, and a ½ inch on larger or flooring tile.

    General tips for tiling

    With any pattern, especially intricate ones, use tile spacers. I usually keep two kinds on hand – T-shaped like these and Wedge tile spacers. I much prefer the T-shaped ones over other shapes like these cross ones, because the T fits well into staggered joints and they are easy to remove. Wedges come in handy because you can trim them to size, so I use both.

    I don’t usually lay tile out before putting on the wall, but it is recommended. Normally, it’s very difficult for me to have a large enough flat surface to everything exact to make the correct cuts before laying on the wall. So cuts are performed as I go.

    Always cover and pad anything you don’t want scratched or dinged in case you drop a tile or mortar. In a bathtub or shower pan, I lay down folded towels and then cover with a plastic sheet that is taped around the wall.

    Hands applying mortar to ceramic tile.
    Photo Credit: Cement Tile Accent Wall

    The mortar will harden fairly quickly when it is on the Hardi-backer or other substrate. For intricate patterns or if you are very slow, I recommend spreading the mortar/adhesive on the back of the tile rather than putting the mortar on the wall.

    • Spread the mortar over the entire back area of the tile
    • Scrape it just like you would do the wall with the spreader at a consistent 30-45-degree angle.
    • Stick it onto the wall and give it a little wiggle to make sure it’s sticking. Use your spacers to make sure the tile is level & adjust if necessary.

    How To Lay Herringbone Tile Pattern

    Step 1: Find the Center Point

    The first step in laying a herringbone pattern is to find the center point of the wall. Measure the length of the wall and mark the halfway point.

    Step 2: Decide Starting Point

    A floor layout is different than a wall. On a floor, you start in the center and radiate out towards the walls on either side, on a wall, we start at the bottom because gravity might cause the tiles to slip downward, ruining your pattern. You can either start at the bottom or use a ledger board in the middle. A ledger board is just a very straight board you screw into the wall that the tile can rest on. When you are done, unscrew the ledger board and tile in its place.

    Step 3: Add a ledger board

    I always use a ledger board for starting out on a wall, in place of the first row of tiles. I measure it exactly the height of the first row plus grout, like this:

    In progress photo of laying herringbone pattern with ceramic tile inset with subway tile surround.

    Step 4: How to Lay the First Tile

    The first tile is the most important because it sets the pattern for the rest of the tile. In order to make the pattern perfectly even on both sides, start it like the picture below. To get a 45-degree angle, use a combination square (without the ruler) or draw a line with a trim square.

    How to Lay the first herringbone tile.

    If you have the space, I recommend laying your pattern out on the floor so you can make cuts before laying the tile on the wall. I usually cut about 6 rows at a time once the pattern is set.

    In progress photo of ceramic tile set in herringbone pattern inlay with border surrounded by subway tile shower.

    Step 5: Continue up the wall

    One neat thing is that once you get that first piece exactly right in a herringbone tile pattern, and start tiling up, the side cut pieces will all be the same size! This is, of course, assuming the walls are straight.

    Pro Tip: Every few rows, check for level by putting a level across the top points of the tile. This means the tile hasn’t set long enough so adjustments can be made.

    White herringbone tile shower inset in subway tile shower with title and tutorial pics.

    So that’s it! It’s not any harder than other tile patterns once you get that first tile set. I hear a lot that tiling scares beginning DIYers, but it’s actually one of the easier – though tedious – projects to do. If you can get the walls up straight, tiling is a breeze.

    We have tiled several project tutorials including installing groutable vinyl tile, LVT floor tile, and tips for using beveled subway tile. I have even more tiling projects and videos coming up so stay tuned!

    Herringbone Pattern FAQs

    What direction is herringbone tile layed?

    Herringbone tile is usually laid at a 45-degree angle to the floor or wall that it adjoins. This orientation looks similar to arrows pointing straight up or down. However, it can also be started horizontal, which gives the illusion that the floor moves diagonally.

    Does it take more tile to lay herringbone?

    Yes. With a geometric pattern, there are generally far more cuts involved. When calculating how many tile you need, go with at least 15% for herringbone and 10% for a straight lay.

    What size tile is best for a herringbone pattern?

    3×12 tile was used in this particular project. However, 3×6 and 2×4 work well too depending on your look. You want a tile where the longer side is evenly divisible by the shorter side (i.e. 12 divided by 3 =4 in our case). While you can use any size tile theoretically, divisible sides are easier to work with.

    Does herringbone make a room look bigger?

    To some degree. Herringbone has an effect that seems to expand the width of a room or wall. Because of this, herringbone floors are good choices for small spaces like laundry rooms or powder rooms. The effect works best in square spaces.

    Hope you find this inspiring, because I look at that picture and it looks so comforting and relaxing and modern.

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    PS I love seeing your creations! Be sure to take a photo and tag #cravingcreative on Instagram! You can also stay in touch with me through following me on Instagram, Pinterest, and subscribing to the newsletter!

    In progress photo of laying herringbone pattern with ceramic tile inset with subway tile surround.

    How to Tile a Herringbone Pattern

    Step by step guide for tiling a herringbone pattern that shows you how to measure, mark, cut and lay the herringbone tiles for a perfect job.
    5 from 4 votes
    Print Pin Rate
    Prep Time: 30 minutes
    Project Time: 6 hours
    Total Time: 6 hours 30 minutes
    Author: Rachel
    Cost: $300

    Tools

    • Tile Cutting Saw
    • Tile Cutting Blade
    • Square Trowel
    • Rubber Grout Float
    • Tile Sponge

    Supplies

    • Tile Spacers – T shaped
    • Wedge Spacers
    • Mortar
    • Tile *see not below about sizing
    • Grout

    Instructions

    • Find the center point on the wall. Measure the length of the wall and mark the halfway point from top to bottom.
      How to Lay the first herringbone tile.
    • Put up a ledger board. You can either start at the bottom or use a ledger board in the middle. A ledger board is just a very straight board you screw into the wall that the tile can rest on. When you are done, unscrew the ledger board and tile in it's place.
      In progress photo of laying herringbone pattern with ceramic tile inset with subway tile surround.
    • Lay the first tile. The first tile is the most important because it sets the pattern for the rest of the tile. In order to make the pattern perfectly even on both sides, start with the centerline in the center of the short side of of the tile. To get a 45 degree angle, use a combination square (without the ruler) or draw a line with a trim square.
      How to Lay the first herringbone tile.
    • Continue up the wall. Every few rows, I check for level by putting a level across the top points of the tile as I lay. This means the tile hasn't set long enough so that I can make adjustments. Make sure to wipe any excess mortar off before it dries.
      Laying herringbone pattern up a wall.

    Notes

    Does it take more tile to make a herringbone pattern?
    Yes. With a geometric pattern, there are generally far more cuts involved. When calculating how many tile you need, go with at least 15% for herringbone and 10% for a straight lay.
    What size tile is best for a herringbone pattern?
    Herringbone pattern only works with tiles where the longest side is relatively divisible by the shortest side + grout width. A  3 x 12 tile works best. However, a 3×6, 4×12, or other variations will work, but look slightly different. 
    With any pattern, especially intricate ones, use tile spacers. I usually keep two kinds on hand – T-shaped like these and Wedge tile spacers. I much prefer the T-shaped ones over other shapes like these cross ones, because the T fits well into staggered joints and they are easy to remove. Wedges come in handy because you can trim them to size, so I use both.
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      Recipe Rating




    1. Mandy says

      February 25, 2022 at 4:15 pm

      5 stars
      Love this Pin it is just perfect for the project I am about to embark on.

      Reply
    2. Paula says

      September 23, 2021 at 10:13 pm

      What size trim tile did you use to frame the herringbone design? Thanks!

      Reply
      • Rachel says

        September 24, 2021 at 11:44 am

        I used a specialty decorative tile. It’s similar to a pencil tile but has a double lip and I believe it was about 1 inch x 12 inches. It lined up oddly so I cut it at different lengths to make it more purposeful looking.

        Reply
    3. Renee says

      April 07, 2021 at 6:46 pm

      5 stars
      This has inspired me for my hall bath remodel! What are the dimensions of the accent/herringbone area?

      Reply
    4. Suzie says

      January 29, 2021 at 9:16 pm

      5 stars
      Do you remember the name and color of the grout you used? It’s a very nice and subtle contrast. Love it!

      Reply
      • Rachel says

        January 31, 2021 at 5:32 pm

        This particular tile grout is Mapei Frost. It’s a subtle light gray color.

        Reply
    5. Jackie Howard says

      July 22, 2020 at 5:56 pm

      5 stars
      What size subway tile did you use? Thank you!

      Reply
      • Rachel says

        July 29, 2020 at 8:15 am

        This particular pattern consists of 3×12 subway tile.

        Reply

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