Learn the tips and tricks to painting a bathroom cabinet that will last! This inexpensive yet professional looking project saved our builder grade vanity.
Painting the bathroom vanity has been on our todo list for years! We are so close to finishing up this bathroom renovation, that I almost can’t stand it!
So this is what we started with:
It’s not in great shape and the missing front piece has never been there since we moved in.
The awesome power of paint in a makeover never ceases to amaze and, frankly, I love that it is a budget saver. I have painted several furniture pieces over the years and am ready to tackle a little different job.
With only a quart of paint, the right tools, and a little knowledge, I made this into to a more modern guest bathroom!
While it might seem like an intimidating project, with the right tools and some good advice, it’s perfect for a beginner DIY project. If this is a project you’ve considered tackling, this post will give you the step by step how-to to get it done! Let’s go…
Recommended Paint Project Supplies
- TSP Cleaner – or any degreasing cleaner should be fine
- Palm sander, mouse sander or multi-tool cutter/sander, sandpaper blocks (if necessary)
- Stainblocker or Shellac Based Primer (only needed for very light or white colors)
- Paintbrushes
- Microfiber rollers (Not Foam)
- Paint – (my favorites) Benjamin Moore Advance, Cabinet Transformations, Fusion Mineral, Rust-Oleum Chalked Ultra Matte
- Protective Top Coat – Here is my list of favorite protective top coats. (optional- more on that later)
Step 1: Remove the Doors and Hardware
The first step when painting a bathroom vanity is to remove the drawers, door front, and any hardware present so that only the frame is left.
If you are changing out the hardware to a different size, fill any holes from the old hardware. After the surface is good, clean the frames and all doors and drawer fronts with either TSP or a household cleaner if the cabinet isn’t too nasty.
Step 2: Sand Lightly
After all grime is removed, lightly sand the surface. I generally recommend against skipping the sanding because the best bond requires some sanding. And you want your paint to have the best bond for long lasting results.
For sanding, you only need to “rough up”, not completely remove all previous stain and varnish. I use an orbital sander with 120 grit and leave it at that. A 220 can be used for hand sanding any corners.
If you want to get a completely smooth finish, we have a tutorial for filling in woodgrain on furniture. For dark colors with a matte sheen, I generally don’t find it to be bothersome.
After everything is sanded, vacuum off the sanding dust and wipe all of the surfaces down with a clean microfiber cloth or tack cloth.
Step 3: Paint
Yes, the fun part! Here are some tips for the smoothest finish:
- Get the right tools. A few extra dollars will save you a lot of heartache and frustration. I prefer fine taklon brushes like you find at craft stores for the least amount of brush strokes, but many people like Purdy Brushes.
- Tape off any edges you don’t want painted such as under countertops or walls.
- Use a lint free -microfiber roller across all flat surfaces for the smoothest finish.
- You will get the best results if you brush then roll before the paint has time to dry.
Frequently Asked Questions
Yes! If you do not have any of the below problems, I would skip priming:
1. You are using a non-priming enamel paint.
2. There is no risk of stains, oils, or grease coming through the paint (use a stainblocking primer if there is).
3. You aren’t painting bright white (I like to use a stainblocking primer for white).
The color is Midnight Blue from Fusion Mineral Paints. The above pictures is the best reference for what the true color looks like in LOTS of natural light. However, it does appear darker at night or in shadow (it looks almost black).
I usually don’t paint the insides or the drawer sides because it just isn’t worth the effort for me. I generally don’t recommend painting inside the cabinets because of scratches. If you have some damage, I would probably use a quality contact paper.
Moisture is definitely going to be a factor when deciding what paint to use. As a result, I would use an enamel or acrylic type of paint. Fusion Mineral Paint is an Acrylic Emulsion based paint rather than something like chalk or latex which I would never use in a bathroom.
You Can Buy Fusion Mineral Paint Here.
You can read more about the best paints for furniture here which shows my personal recommendations developed over years of refinishing and living with painted furniture.
No. The biggest misconception I see in painting is the idea that you need to sand between coats. Sanding is required only if your paint is not smooth to your liking.
With the paints I use, a top coat is not required. If you do choose to add a protective topcoat, there are lots of options and they all work pretty well. You can read my recommendations on the best top coats for furniture to help make a decision, but any quality poly will do. Just make sure that it is water based.
SEE OUR FULL BATHROOM REMODEL REVEAL HERE
With a brush and microfiber roller, I painted 2 coats. And that’s it!
Because I wanted to add hardware to this vanity, I drilled holes in each piece and screwed them in just like any other hardware.
Want to see more furniture transformations? Check these out!
- How to Eliminate Brush Marks or Strokes
- Executive Desk Makeover
- How to Paint Old Kitchen Cabinets
- How to Paint a Stair Rail that Lasts
- Military Footlocker Trash to Treasure Makeover
PS I love seeing your creations! Be sure to take a photo and tag #cravingcreative on Instagram! You can also stay in touch with me through following me on Instagram, Pinterest, and Subscribing to the Newsletter!
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More Furniture Painting Tutorials
Cerused Table 
Chalk Paint Desk Makeover The Most Durable Furniture
How To Paint a Bathroom Cabinet
Supplies
- TSP or degreaser
- sandpaper or sanding blocks 120 and 220 grit
- paint brushes
- lint-free microfiber rollers
- Paint See my favorites to use in Notes
- Protective Top Coat Optional, but recommended
Instructions
- Remove hardware and doors. For large jobs, I number the doors. Clean the frames and all doors and drawer fronts well.
- Sand enough to remove any sheen or gloss. An orbital sander with 120 grit makes the sanding much easier. 120 or 220 grit can be used for hand sanding any corners.
- Tape off any edges you don't want painted such as under countertops or walls. Use a lint free microfiber roller across all flat surfaces for the smoothest finish. You will get the best results if you brush then roll before the paint has time to dry.
Notes
- Painting over dark cabinets with a light or white color
- Oak Cabinets that have bad stains stains like deeply embedded oil or markers.
- Cabinets with knots in the wood such as knotty pine.
Kristin and Bryan Hart says
Hi-
What is the color you used on your bathroom walls?
Rachel says
The walls are Benjamin Moore Iced Cube Silver. Although it is a pretty subtle gray, it takes on a hint of blue when paired with navy or other stronger blues.
Emily says
Hi there! What topcoat (if any) did you use on this project? I read your topcoat post, but still can’t make a decision. I’m starting with the kids’ bathroom this spring break, so I want it to be durable and wipe-able (hello, toothpaste spittle). Thanks so much!
Rachel says
I was intending to put a top coat on this project but it has held up so well with the Fusion that I never did. We use this particular vanity for the kids as well.
Alex Sutton says
This looks awesome! I’m getting ready to paint my bathroom cabinets, so this is incredibly helpful as I make sure that I have everything and do it correctly! Thank you for sharing your experience! I hope my cabinets turn out as good as yours did! Finger crossed 🙂
CC says
I love your mix of metals! I was hesitant to go with brass hardware since my fixtures and faucet are pewter/silver. The brass framed mirror just brings it all together!
Emily says
I felt inspired by your post and I’m about to redo my cabinets. I had two questions- Did you use Krud Kutter or any surface cleaner before sanding down your cabinets? Also, what brush did you use for this project? Ive heard so many mixed recommendations. I read your post about brushes, which was very helpful. I’ve also read about Zibra angled brushes and Staalmester oval brushes as well- have you tried either of those? Thoughts? I appreciate your two cents! Thank you!
Rachel says
Hi Emily. Great questions. I usually use TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) and a good degreaser if necessary. Simple Green or Grease Lightening are sometimes what I use for degreaser. However, I am familiar with Krud Kutter and it’s a good product. I have a few Staalmester brushes and they are more of a boutique type brush. I like the oval brushes for the perfectly-imperfect pieces, aging, distressing, old-world, etc. I am not familiar with the Zibra brushes specifically. I will have to look at those. I will say that if there is a project that I want to be brushstroke free and I don’t have a sprayer, I try to use a smooth surface microfiber roller on all flat surfaces rather than a brush. It’s faster than a brush you don’t have as many problems backbrushing over partially dried paint. I hope that helps and I will look into the Zibra brushes.
Jake says
Do you have any tips on removing the original countertop without damaging the cabinets?
Rachel says
The old countertop was caulked around the edges underneath and to the wall, so I simply cut the caulk with a razor knife and lifted it out. There are a couple of different ways that countertops, both kitchen and bathroom, are installed. I have a post that is has good information on removing countertops here.
Kim says
My bathroom cabinets were painted with rusteoleum chalk paint. I have not put on the top coat yet. I’m not sure I like feel right now or how it cleans up. Will the top coat fix this? Or can I paint we with fusion mineral paint over this?
Rachel says
If it’s the chalk-flat sheen that you don’t like from the chalk paint, you can change the sheen a bit with a topcoat of your choice – it doesn’t have to be Rustoleum. I talk about my favorite top coats here. A top coat poly will be easier to clean without damaging the paint and more durable. Since the paint is fresh, you can also paint the fusion right over it as long as you aren’t having any bonding or flaking problems from the previous paint. Fusion is still a matte paint, but not quite as flat as chalk paint.
Leslye Shanberg says
Hi Rachel, are your cabinets real wood? I want to do this to my cabinets but they are like a plastic laminate. Any idea if I could still paint over that? If so, what kind of paint would I use?
Rachel says
Most all of the furniture I redo is comprised of wood, either plywood, solid wood, or a veneer of wood. I have a cabinet that I think is like yours, in that it is made of chipboard, but there is a hard thick plastic coating on it to make it white. In that case, I would recommend either a spray paint meant specifically for plastics or Fusion Mineral Furniture Paint. If there’s any way it can be sanded to at least take off the shine or what I call “roughing it up”, I would do that. You just want to increase the surface area to create a better bond, not remove the layer of plastic. Another type of cabinet that I have seen has a vinyl or paper-like print on it, although it looks sort of plasticky. In that case, I would use a super high-bonding primer, like Kilz Adhesion or Fusion Mineral UltraGrip. I would also very lightly sand something like this, although I have seen most skip sanding because that can cause more problems if mdf is under the print – mdf soaks up water and bubbles easily. Let the primer dry at least 24 hours before painting. I would recommend testing the process out in an inconspicuous place like the inside of the cabinets before going full restoration on everything. I hope that helps and that your cabinets turn out fabulously!
Jenny says
This is amazing! Quick question- did you run into any problems with the grain showing through?
Rachel says
The grain wasn’t bad on this particular set after sanding a little. It’s also a very dark color so that lessens how much the grain shows unless you look for it. If you are very concerned about the grain showing through, I have a post on how to remove woodgrain for painting cabinets.
Mina says
I was wondering the same thing. I plan to use Ben More Hale Navy to repaint my bathroom cabinets in a half bath. I’ve never done this before so your site has been INCREDIBLY helpful. I am definitely nervous and wondering if I should try to remove the grain given the dark color or if I shouldn’t bother (im a little worried I will ruin that.. given how thing the layers need to be to thin out the grain). What would you recommend for a first timer?
Rachel says
This is just my opinion. Unless it’s a super deep grain like oak or you have a specific vision, I personally wouldn’t worry about filling in the grain too much. I have done so many furniture makeovers that, for me, it’s just another step I try to avoid if I can get away with it, lol. A half bath cabinet shouldn’t be too much work, so that’s good. Benjamin Moore will usually recommend the advance alkyd paint for cabinets, in a satin. The cabinet above is a matte finish from Fusion Mineral. BM advance has excellent self leveling but satin is going to be shinier than the cabinets you see here, which will reflect light and the grain will be more apparent. Unless you have light (like a window or overhead light in front of the cabinet) shining on it, the grain still won’t show that much because of how dark it is. Since it’s a smaller cabinet, I wouldn’t worry too much about the beginner aspect of it. While sanding is always awful, using wood filler is beginner friendly with the right products. I hope that helps and good luck with your project! It will look great whichever way you decide.